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+  <title>Building a Digital Clock Kit (HPR Show 2329)</title>
+  <style type="text/css">code{white-space: pre;}</style>
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+ <body id="home">
+  <div class="shadow" id="container"><header><h1 class="title">Building a Digital Clock Kit (HPR Show 2329)</h1>
+    <h2 class="author">Dave Morriss</h2>
+    <hr /></header> <main id="maincontent"> <article> <header><h1>Table of Contents</h1><nav id="TOC"><ul>
+        <li><a href="#introduction">Introduction</a></li>
+        <li><a href="#unpacking">Unpacking</a></li>
+        <li><a href="#building">Building</a></li>
+        <li><a href="#instructions">Instructions</a><ul>
+          <li><a href="#setting-the-clock">Setting the clock</a></li>
+         </ul>
+        </li>
+        <li><a href="#impressions">Impressions</a></li>
+        <li><a href="#links">Links</a></li>
+       </ul></nav> </header><h2 id="introduction">Introduction</h2>
+     <p>In April 2017 my son and I decided to each build a digital clock. I had been interested in the idea since seeing <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ty5Bnj2XqE" title="eBay clock kit. Full build and setting guide.">Big Clive</a> build one on YouTube, and I think my son had been similarly motivated.</p>
+     <p>He found one, which I have <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162310902696" title="4-Digit LED DIY Digital Electronic Micro Controller Kit Clock Time Thermometer">linked</a> to below. It’s smaller than the one shown by Big Clive, comes from ShenZhen China, and currently costs $5.35 (about £4.18) postage free. It takes a <em>long</em> time to arrive, so patience is needed!</p>
+     <p>There are <u>many</u> digital clock kits on eBay, and lots of YouTube videos showing how to build them. I think it’s a great project for someone wanting some soldering practice which is a little more demanding than a beginner project.</p>
+     <p>One type to avoid, I think, is the surface mount type. The one I have uses a through-hole PCB, but I have seen some that provide SMD (surface-mounted device<a class="footnoteRef" href="#fn1" id="fnref1"><sup>1</sup></a>) components. That type of soldering is beyond me at the moment (though my son has been teaching himself to do it).</p>
+     <h2 id="unpacking">Unpacking</h2>
+     <p>I have included a number of images with the episode. What you see here are thumbnails. Click on them to view the full image.</p>
+     <p>The kit came in a standard bubble-wrap package, with some components bagged or shrink-wrapped together.</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_001.png"><img alt="Package received" src="hpr2329_img_001_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Picture: The components after un-boxing</small></p>
+     <p>Contents were a PCB, a 4-digit display, a perspex box, two chips and associated sockets, various components and a USB power lead. Contrary to what is stated on the eBay site, there is a battery included in the kit, a CR1220 Lithium Cell.</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_002.png"><img alt="Components unpacked" src="hpr2329_img_002_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Picture: The components unwrapped</small></p>
+     <p>The PCB looked nice, so I photographed front and rear.</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_003.png"><img alt="PCB 1" src="hpr2329_img_003_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_004.png"><img alt="PCB 2" src="hpr2329_img_004_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Pictures: The PCB component side and reverse side</small></p>
+     <h2 id="building">Building</h2>
+     <p>So, on to building the kit. There are some hints about the sequence of components. I started with the resistors.</p>
+     <p>In the image I show off the PCB holder I got for Christmas!</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_005.png"><img alt="Starting to add components" src="hpr2329_img_005_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Picture: Starting to add components</small></p>
+     <p>The PCB holder can’t cope as the board becomes populated since there’s nothing to hold on to.</p>
+     <p>Getting the LDR (light dependent resistor) and the thermistor (temperature sensor) positioned so they protrude though the case needs care. In case you wondered I washed before removing the seal. <big><big>☺</big></big></p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_006.png"><img alt="Most components added" src="hpr2329_img_006_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_007.png"><img alt="Underside of the PCB" src="hpr2329_img_007_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Pictures: Most components added, front and back view of the PCB</small></p>
+     <p>I test assembled the case and wrote on each piece where it was to go. It was not too simple to get it right I found.</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_008.png"><img alt="Putting the case together to see how it fits" src="hpr2329_img_008_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Picture: Putting the case together to see how it fits</small></p>
+     <p>The fitting of the display needed care since the pins were a bit splayed or bent and needed straightening. Orientation is important of course, as is clearance of components on the board (like the crystal, which could short out pins).</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_009.png"><img alt="Adding the display" src="hpr2329_img_009_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_010.png"><img alt="Another view prior to soldering the display" src="hpr2329_img_010_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_011.png"><img alt="Showing clearance for the display pins" src="hpr2329_img_011_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_012.png"><img alt="Display soldered on" src="hpr2329_img_012_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Pictures: Test fitting the display, showing clearance for the display pins. Then showing the display soldered on and pins cropped short</small></p>
+     <p>The clock was a tight fit in the case, which is why it was very important to ensure that everything was properly aligned on the PCB and the clearance between PCB and display chip were as small as possible.</p>
+     <p>Even so, the speaker did not match with the hole in the case. It was made to fit eventually by careful positioning (not brute force, though I was tempted!)</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_013.png"><img alt="Kit installed in the case" src="hpr2329_img_013_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_014.png"><img alt="Alignment is an issue" src="hpr2329_img_014_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_015.png"><img alt="Side view of alignment problem" src="hpr2329_img_015_tn.png" /></a> <a href="hpr2329_img_016.png"><img alt="Assembled but slightly misaligned" src="hpr2329_img_016_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Pictures The clock installed in the case, but slightly misaligned. Various views</small></p>
+     <p>Everything was assembled and power applied, and it worked!</p>
+     <p>Taking photos of it in action is difficult.</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_017.png"><img alt="It lives!" src="hpr2329_img_017_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Picture: It lives!</small></p>
+     <h2 id="instructions">Instructions</h2>
+     <p>In short, these are pretty bad! Mine consisted of a single sheet, badly photocopied and difficult to read in places.</p>
+     <p>There is a diagram of the PCB, which is helpful for component placement, as is the list of components with numbers like <code>r1</code> and <code>r2</code> matching the picture.</p>
+     <p>The written instructions are pretty bad though. The translation seems very poor using ‘welding’ for ‘soldering’ and many sentences are close to meaningless. Things like:</p>
+     <blockquote>
+      <ol start="3" type="1">
+       <li>The pins with diagonal cutting pliers cut short (this step is important) as far as possible, avoid to resist digital tube affect beautiful.</li>
+       <li>Welding digital tube, digital tube must pay attention to the final, or placed on the back of the device can’t welding.</li>
+      </ol>
+     </blockquote>
+     <p>I think this means to ensure all component wires are trimmed as short as possible to avoid touching the display – which fits on the reverse of the PCB. This makes sense because there is a very tiny clearance for the PCB and display or they don’t fit in the case.</p>
+     <p><a href="hpr2329_img_018.png"><img alt="The instructions aren’t very good" src="hpr2329_img_018_tn.png" /></a><br /><small>Picture: The instructions aren’t very good</small></p>
+     <h3 id="setting-the-clock">Setting the clock</h3>
+     <p>This was a bit of a challenge. I think that the process is:</p>
+     <ol type="1">
+      <li>Press the <em>set</em> (top) button once to change the time (hours). The change is performed by repeatedly pressing the <em>add</em> button.</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again to change the minutes of the time, using <em>add</em> as before.</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again to adjust the hours of the alarm, using <em>add</em>.</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again to adjust the minutes of the alarm, using <em>add</em>.</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again to enable/disable the alarm. Its state is shown by the light in the bottom right corner of the display (light off = alarm off)</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again to enter the mode controlling an hourly beep. Here <em>add</em> changes the left side of the display which defines the hour at which the beep is turned on (e.g. 08 = 8 a.m.)</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again and the right side of the display flashes, then use <em>add</em> to adjust. This defines the end time for hourly beeps (e.g. 20 = 20:00, 8 p.m.)</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> again then use <em>add</em> to enable/disable this mode. The rightmost light on bottom of the display shows the mode is enabled when on.</li>
+      <li>Press <em>set</em> one more time and the clock is back to normal (<em>normal walking</em> as the instructions say).</li>
+     </ol>
+     <p>The thing I try not to forget is that the <em>set</em> key needs 9 presses to cycle through all settings and back to normal.</p>
+     <h2 id="impressions">Impressions</h2>
+     <p>The clock is fine, and not bad for the price. On the other hand you get what you pay for!</p>
+     <p>The timekeeping is OK, though I have seen a bit of drift in the few weeks I have had it. The battery backup is good to have (though the battery used, a CR1220, is not quite as easy to find as most, according to my researches).</p>
+     <p>The clock shows the temperature every 30 seconds then returns to the time display. The temperature sensor is not accurate at all. I have my clock on top of a powered USB hub under one of my monitors. It may be warmer there than elsewhere, but 29°C seems high on a coolish day where other thermometers are reading 24°C in the house. Some means of calibration would be nice.</p>
+     <p>The light sensor (LDR) turns the brightness down when the ambient light level is lower, which is good since the display is very bright.</p>
+     <p>On the whole, I’m glad I bought it.</p>
+     <h2 id="links">Links</h2>
+     <ul>
+      <li>Youtube bigclivedotcom: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Ty5Bnj2XqE">eBay clock kit. Full build and setting guide.</a></li>
+      <li>eBay item: <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162310902696">4-Digit LED DIY Digital Electronic Micro Controller Kit Clock Time Thermometer</a></li>
+     </ul>
+     <!--
+vim: syntax=markdown:ts=8:sw=4:ai:et:tw=78:fo=tcqn:fdm=marker
+--><section class="footnotes"><hr />
+      <ol>
+       <li id="fn1">
+        <p>Take care when searching for “SMD” since it has multiple meanings (I discovered)!<a href="#fnref1">↩</a></p>
+       </li>
+      </ol></section> </article> </main></div>
+ </body>
+</html>
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