Episode: 3088
Title: HPR3088: Matchbox Restoration Part 2
Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr3088/hpr3088.mp3
Transcribed: 2025-10-24 16:32:56

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This is Hacker Public Radio Episode 3888 for Wednesday 3 June 2020.
Today's show is entitled Matchbox Restoration Part 2.
It is hosted by Tony Hughes, aka Tony H1212,
and is about five minutes long
and carries a clean flag. The summer is
second episode discussing restoring matchbox diecast models,
Tony talks tools and materials needed.
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Hello, all in Hacker Public Radio Land.
This is Tony Hughes, coming to you from Blackpool in the UK.
I hope you're all keeping well in the current time of restrictions due to the coronavirus.
In this, the second episode of my recordings talking about restoring
of matchbox and other diecast models.
I'm going to talk of the equipment we'll need and find essential
and some of the other things that while at the start you could live without
but as you get into the hobby you may find extremely.
So the first thing you'll need is a drill
for drilling the posts out on the model,
both to aid in dismantling them.
And if you plan to reassemble with the aid of small screws
to drill a hole in the post for tapping to accommodate the screws.
This can be a hand held wired or cordless drill
or if you ever work shop with a drill press
or the better as this can be used in several ways
during the reassembly process of the model.
That is on my wish list as I don't have one at the moment.
Second, you'll need a set of modeling files
for removing the burr on the ax
to remove the and the plastic wheels off the bases
of the model to allow for repainting you've required.
Why are brushes cleaning the remains of any paint
that didn't get removed by the paint stripper
and he mistactic clamp tweezers or crocodile grips on a rod
for use to hold the models during spray painting.
Additionally, although you can start doing restorations
without these, the following may become very useful
to help save time and achieve better finishes
of the completed restoration.
A rotary tool, most well known of these, the Dremel,
but there are many other manufacturers of similar tools
and at more economic cost.
However, beware you do get what you pay for.
And you may find buying the cheapest of false economy.
My cheap little rotary tool,
which I've had for a few years,
but barely used, failed after five months of use
a few weeks ago.
The chuck ring thread strip,
and it will no longer hold bits in the chuck.
The rotary tool makes the removal of axles
a very quick job and cleaning paint strip castings
with a way of rotary brush.
Another thing you may find useful is a small spray booth
with an extractor fan and filter for removing over spray
from the area you paint in there.
If doing this indoors,
particularly if your workshop is in the house,
although one YouTuber,
modeler I follow,
sprays his models on the cooker
with the cooker extractor fan
on to achieve a similar result
when painting indoors.
Not sure what his wife thinks.
Finally, you may wish to put a compressor
and spray them on.
If you get hooked,
and this gives you a far better range of colours
in painting as you can mix your own shade.
Some of the communities are sticklers
for trying to get an exact match
to the original colour of the model.
Others like me at the moment
are happy to use shop bought spray paint can.
A small table vice is also useful for holding the model.
A set of helping hands for the same reason,
but you can use these for during the painting process,
particularly when painting fine details.
So that's the tools.
Now what about consumables?
For the obviously one these gloves
and these come in a couple of varieties
rubber washing up gloves to protect
from some of the chemicals used
to strip paint.
Latex gloves for using when spray painting,
as you have more control on wearing these
rather than a looser fitting.
And work gloves for use when drilling
or using other tools or sanding
and things like a paint face mask
to prevent inhaling fuel.
Paint stripper.
I use the B&Q dial own brand paint stripper.
I also use caustic soda for the same thing.
Occasionally one will work
when the other fails to remove the paint.
It depends on the original paint apply to the model.
Model filler for repairing dents in the casting.
Wear a wool and several gates
of wet and dry sanding paper
to smooth models
after filler has been used.
Super glue, useful for repairs
where a quick setting me.
And of course cans of spray paint to repaint the model
both primer and the final colour you want.
You may also want a canner to clear coat
to give that extra protection
after painting or giving a gloss finish
if the paint was a matte or satin.
Not essential at the start
but I also use a UV resin glue
that cures very quickly after exposure
to a UV light tool.
This can be added and cured in layers
and remains flexible
so it can be useful for repairs on cables
as well as for me modeling.
Finally you need your first model
to start work on.
These can be found in charity shops.
Online option sites
or maybe in the loft
or garage if you've got any of your old
childhood models kicking
needing to be real
later in the series I'll talk about other things you may add
to the consumables
as you get more into the heart.
So that's it for this episode.
The next episode I'll talk through
me dismantling the model for restoration.
So this is Tony Hughes for HBR
signing off for this episode.
Keep safe and I'll be back soon.
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