123 lines
8.8 KiB
Plaintext
123 lines
8.8 KiB
Plaintext
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Episode: 3114
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Title: HPR3114: Using the Akaso EK7000 Pro
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Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr3114/hpr3114.mp3
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Transcribed: 2025-10-24 17:03:48
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---
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This is Hacker Public Radio Episode 3114 for Thursday 9 July 2020. Today's show is entitled
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using the Akato EK7000 Pro. It is hosted by Ahuka,
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and is about 11 minutes long
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and carries a clean flag. The summary is
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some tips on using the camera based on my limited experience on one trip.
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This episode of HPR is brought to you by archive.org.
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Support universal access to all knowledge by heading over to archive.org forward slash donate.
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Music
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Hello, this is Ahuka, welcoming you to Hacker Public Radio
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and another exciting episode. In this case, I'm going to follow up on something that I did recently
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talking about a camera that I got. And that was the Akaso EK7000 Pro.
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And I just want to add a little more information to what I talked about in that previous program.
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So, you know, this is what is sometimes referred to as an action cam.
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It comes with a waterproof case, it's small, it's light.
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So, it's very similar in many respects to a GoPro.
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You know, in fairness, the GoPro is, I think, a better camera with more features and also a lot more expensive.
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Still, this is not a bad camera and it does the four modes you might expect.
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It can do video, still photos, burst mode and timelapse.
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Now, you select the mode using the mode button on front, which also doubles as the power button.
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Thankfully, it is labeled with the word mode and with the symbol for power.
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So, it's pretty easy to see that.
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So, you push and hold on that button to turn it on or off and then push to cycle through the modes.
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Now, video is probably the prime user case for an action cam.
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So, how does a video work?
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Well, when you select video, you can just start shooting by pressing the button on top of the camera
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next to the red power on light.
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This button is called the shutter select button because it does these two functions.
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When you have turned it on and selected video, you can make some choices.
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This is where the touch screen is used.
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The screen on the back will show a wrench icon, which is for settings.
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Tap it and you can set the video resolution.
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You have five different options.
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One is the 4K option, 4K at 25 frames per second.
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Then there is a 2.7K at 30 frames per second, a 1080p at 60 frames per second, a 720p at 120 frames per second.
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And finally, if you really want low file sizes, 720p at back down to 60 frames per second.
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Now, you move up and down the list of resolutions using the up and down arrows.
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These are buttons on the side of the camera.
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Now, what I ended up choosing after a little experimentation was what I thought was a reasonable default for someone who is quite obviously very much an amateur.
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That's me.
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Note that all of these resolutions have a 16-9 aspect ratio.
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So, what I chose was the 1080p at 60 frames per second.
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Now, if I was going to do slow motion, I would probably do the 720p at 120 frames per second.
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But what I chose, I think, worked fairly well for what I wanted to do.
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Now, this camera also has image stabilization, which you can turn on underneath the video resolution option.
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You just touch the screen and select on.
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Now, at this point, just a note.
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The touch screen is not accessible while the camera is in the waterproof case.
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So, if you plan to do any shooting where things are going to get wet,
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you should make your settings in advance and then lock everything up inside the waterproof case for safety.
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So, as I said, I chose 1080p at 60 frames per second. This worked out pretty well.
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Now, one thing I found, I don't know how common this is with action cams.
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Maybe they all work like this.
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But I discovered that videos will not be longer than three minutes.
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If you keep shooting, the camera just starts another video file.
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So, if you wanted to shoot five minutes of video, you'd get a three-minute video and then a two-minute one right after it.
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Now, for posting videos to social media platforms, this does kind of make some sense.
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Generally speaking, you're not going to be posting huge videos.
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Now, file sizes can vary a little depending on the content and so on.
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But, with these settings, my three-minute videos were pretty consistently in the 450 to 475 megabyte range.
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So, assuming a conservative 475 megabytes per video, my 64GB SD card would hold around 134 three-minute videos or over six hours of video.
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Now, since many of my videos were less than three minutes long, I was never in the least danger of running out of storage on our trip.
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Now, the other thing you can do with this is take photos.
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Now, to switch to photo mode, press the mode button on the front of the camera when it says photo, you're there.
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Now, again, pressing the wrench icon can get you into the settings, but it is completely non-intuitive.
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At least, was not intuitive to me.
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I finally figured it out.
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You need to press the down button to angle, tap that once, hit the back button on the touch screen,
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and now the down button will get you into some options that were not there before.
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And what are those options?
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Diving mode, loop recording, time lapse video, date stamp, exposure, photo resolution, burst photo, time lapse photo, continuous lapse.
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So, photo resolution was what I was looking for, and I had to go through all of that stuff to get there.
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Now, if you select photo resolution, you can get, it's just based on pixels.
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16 megapixels, 14 megapixels, 12 megapixels, 8, 5, and 4.
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I did a little testing.
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So, I found that these tend to produce the following file sizes.
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These were test photos, I don't know how much variation you might get, but I think these would be pretty close.
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For 16 megapixels, it was 2,590 kilobytes.
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14 megapixels was 2,364 kilobytes.
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12 megapixels was 2,023 kilobytes.
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8 megapixels was 1,294 kilobytes, 5 megapixels, 906 kilobytes, 4 megapixels, 759 kilobytes.
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Well, I have a 64 gigabyte microSD card in this thing, as I discussed last time, so I did a quick estimate of the photos I can store.
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And basically, it runs from at 16 megapixels, I can take 24,000 photos.
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And, you know, it goes up from there as the size goes down.
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24,000 for 16, 27,000 for 14, 31,000 for 12, 49,000 for 8, 70,000 for 5, and 84,000 for 4 megapixels.
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Now, given these numbers, you know, I shot our photos at the highest possible resolution, because why wouldn't you?
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Now, I did take along extra SD cards, but as it happens, I never needed to use them.
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Between the videos and the photos, I probably didn't use more than 4 or 5 gigabytes total, you know.
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It did not chew through a whole lot of stuff.
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Now, what about deleting?
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I didn't do much deleting on the camera itself, although it's pretty easy to do.
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You can delete photos or videos very easily, because when you open it on the bottom left of the screen, it looks like a play button, or in other words, a right pointing arrow in a square.
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Now, if you press this, you get a screen where you can select either videos or photos.
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They will display on the screen one at a time, and you can hit the trash can icon to delete them.
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In practice, what I actually did was I just left everything on there, because I knew I was going to be going through the photos and videos, and deciding whether they were worth keeping.
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Once I got back home, and I would do that on my regular computer, my desktop.
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So that is some practice how I did that.
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When I did, I had two sets of photos and videos to work with, one set from this camera, and one from my Pixel 3A phone.
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I have to tell you that Pixel takes much better pictures and photos than this camera does.
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On the other hand, this camera did allow me to do some shooting under circumstances where I would never take my phone.
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Going up a waterfall in Jamaica, or snorkeling in Virgin Islands, things like that.
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There is a use case for it.
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Again, in round numbers, it is roughly about $100 investment I made for all of this.
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To me, it was worth it to spend that kind of money to be able to document some of the things that we did, and I have still got it.
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If we get another chance to go out and do some snorkeling, I will take it along.
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So this is a hookah for Hacker Public Radio.
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I want to thank all of you and remind you as always to support FreeSoftware.
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Bye-bye.
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You have been listening to Hacker Public Radio at Hacker Public Radio.org.
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We are a community podcast network that releases shows every weekday, Monday through Friday.
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Today's show, like all our shows, was contributed by an HPR listener like yourself.
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If you ever thought of recording a podcast, then click on our contribute link to find out how easy it really is.
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Hacker Public Radio was founded by the digital dog pound and the Infonomicon Computer Club, and is part of the binary revolution at binrev.com.
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If you have comments on today's show, please email the host directly.
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Leave a comment on the website or record a follow-up episode yourself.
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Unless otherwise status, today's show is released under Creative Commons, Attribution, ShareLite, 3.0 license.
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