353 lines
17 KiB
Plaintext
353 lines
17 KiB
Plaintext
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Episode: 3092
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Title: HPR3092: Pens, pencils, paper and ink - 2
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Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr3092/hpr3092.mp3
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Transcribed: 2025-10-24 16:37:23
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---
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This is Hacker Public Radio episode 3,092 for Tuesday, 9 June 2020. Today's show is entitled Pen,
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Pencils, Paper and Ink 2 Inches,
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and is part of the series, The Art of Writing. It is the 120th anniversary show of Dave Morris,
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and is about 21 minutes long
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and carries an explicit flag. The summary is
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looking at more writing equipment. This episode of HPR is brought to you by An Honesthost.com.
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Get 15% discount on all shared hosting with the offer code HPR15, that's HPR15.
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Better web hosting that's Honest and Fair at An Honesthost.com.
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.
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.
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.
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Hello everybody, welcome to Hacker Public Radio. My name is Dave Morris, and I'm going to talk today about pens, pencils, paper and ink,
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and it's the second show with that name.
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This is a fairly short series and I don't want the show to be too long either.
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And this time I'm going to look at three more fountain pens, two which are lower price,
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and another one around 50 pounds or so. I'm going to look at a mechanical pencil and some paper.
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So my first pen is called the Kavekull, which is spelled K-A-W-E-C-O.
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Kavekull Sport, it comes from Germany, I'm pretty certain.
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And its main feature is that it's quite a small pen when it's closed up.
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It's a van to pen obviously, but it gets bigger, comes a more comfortable size when you take the cab off and post it.
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Remember that the term posting in the pen world means that you put the cab on the back end of the main barrel.
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Not all pens can do that, not all of them are designed to do that, and some of them make them too heavy in the wrong direction.
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But this one is designed to work that way.
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I bought a black one of the Kavekull Sport, and it's got a fine nib on it.
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It takes a small international standard size cartridge, and I've also got a piston converter available for it.
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But I haven't started using it yet, I've got it for Christmas, and I'm still working through my cartridges.
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The pen doesn't have a clip on it for clipping any pocket, you can buy one of these as an extra.
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The pen itself costs under £20, or at least it did when I bought it.
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And it's a neat little pen that you can keep in the pocket, or it's more container or something.
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The converter is around £5, and the clip is around £2.50, it's a metal clip.
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I don't really feel a need for one, to be honest.
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There's a wide range of these pens, different colours, most of them are made of acrylic, I think.
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But they're also versions made from steel, aluminium brass, and so forth.
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I'd really like to own the brass one, because it looks really nice, and I like brass.
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But I'm not about to spend £65 on such a thing just at the moment.
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The pictures show the closed-up pen sitting beside its cap,
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and then the pen with the cartridge exposed by taking the barrel off.
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The cartridge is actually quite small, which is a slight downside, but I'm not that bothered.
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And if you use the converter, you can obviously refill, if you need to, if you'd prefer to carry ink around with you.
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I've got to close up the nib, and I've also got a comparison of the pen with the Lami Vista,
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which I spoke about in the last episode.
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It's a nice pen to use, it's small, but my hands are not particularly large, but I like a more chunky pen.
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The size seems normal to me when the cap is posted, I wouldn't use it without the cap on though.
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In this particular case, the fine nib is a little dry, dry in the sense that it doesn't, the ink doesn't flow quite as well as it could.
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This can happen when a fountain pen is running out of ink, which it isn't, obviously because it's just got a new cartridge in.
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Or there's, it's been left to dry out for a while, and the ink's not flowing properly, which again can't be the case.
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So it's also down to the nib is not allowing the ink to flow through it as it should.
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Now I bought a second hand pen on eBay a few years ago, but this was a serious problem, ink just wouldn't flow through it at all.
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And I found out how to correct this from advice on YouTube, of course.
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And it's corrected by making the two tines of the nib move apart fractionally.
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And I've got tools to deal with it, so I was able to solve the problem on my other pen.
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I'm going to see how the Kivego settles down in use.
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Maybe it will get better, but if it doesn't, I will fix it.
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And if I do, I'll add that to my next episode.
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So my next pen is from Platinum, a Japanese manufacturer.
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And this one's called a, I think it's pronounced pre-fante pre-fante.
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P-R-E-F-O-U-N-T-E.
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Doesn't mean anything as far as I'm concerned with it, anyway.
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It's a standard sized pen, it's fairly basic.
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I bought it because I noticed it and thought I'd give it a try.
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And it costs under £10.
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So it seemed like a good experiment.
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It's a refillable cartridge pen, though I haven't yet found a converter for it.
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I'm not sure whether they exist or not.
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I haven't really gone searching that.
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I find it a really nice pen for the price.
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I bought a green model with the fine nib, which is 0.3mm, which is pretty fine.
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And I bought green ink cartridges to go with the current pen.
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I'm really enjoying using it.
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It's a pleasant pen.
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For the price, definitely.
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A few pictures of it.
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I don't know if it's a handwriting sample, you can see the green ink.
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It's a bit similar to another Platinum pen called the Preppy.
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And I mentioned this in the first episode of this series.
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Well, series of me talking about pens and stuff.
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As a good one to maybe try out if you're interested in getting into a fountain pens
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because it's not an expensive thing to do if you go for that type of pen.
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The two pens seem to use the same nib, not too surprisingly.
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They differ in shape with the barrel and the cap and the clip.
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The pre-fante pre-fante has a metal clip, which is good.
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The plastic ones tend to break off if you use them I've found anyway.
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Maybe I'm just amvisted, but I'm not sure they last well.
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One of the selling points of the pre-fante is that the push-on cap seals very well.
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So much so, the pen doesn't try out after being left unused for a year.
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They say this in all the advertising material.
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I think the preppy is similar in this respect since mine hasn't dried out.
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And it's not been used for a good while.
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But it's not pushed as a selling point in that particular pen.
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But it's a factor.
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I've got several pens that I really like, but they dry out.
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If you leave them inked up and unused for a month or so.
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And that's so frustrating because you end up with a pen all full of dry ink.
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If it's going to do that, your best bet is to ink it, use it and then empty it and clean it.
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When you imagine you're not going to be using it for a while,
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it's not always easy to know where I run my life.
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I don't know who is now.
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Third pen is called italics.
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ITALX.
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And that's the brand.
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And the name of the pen is the Parsons Essential.
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The names of these pens are a little bit whimsical.
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I've just quite liked it.
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Years ago when I was in my following years of high school,
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there's a little late teens and stuff.
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I wanted to learn to write in the italic style.
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I bought a fountain pen, a parker it was, with an italic nib and root,
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everything in a italic style.
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Well, I wouldn't have had time to anyway.
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Wasn't that good at it?
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It needs a lot of practice and you need to write slowly until you really got to
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add it at it.
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I kept up the style for a few years,
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but I couldn't use it to take notes in lectures once I got to university,
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so I gradually used it less and less.
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My handwriting did become influenced by the italic style,
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and I haven't tried to write in the four more italic style for ages.
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This Parsons Essential, I saw it,
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so I found that it had a range of italic nibs available with it.
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And non-Italic, actually, I think, but I haven't looked at that one in much detail.
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I decided to buy one just to try and get back into italic writing again.
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The Parsons Essential is very solid, old-fashioned style of pen,
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with, I think it's made of brass, it's quite heavy.
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It's definitely metal, it's got a lac, I finish on it, which is black in this case.
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It's in the picture, and it's got gold-trimmed, gold-colored, probably trim on it.
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There's a whole range of different pens that have these types of characteristics
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of the heavy metal barrel with a italic style nibs.
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I think the company buys them in from elsewhere,
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and then grinds the nib into the italic style.
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What I have is fitted with a straight medium italic nib.
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I say straight because you can get left and right-handed italics,
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which I've never got into.
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I think left is the more, more likely one,
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because it's quite hard to write italics if you're left-handed.
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This one came with a piston-toped converter already installed.
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You can use European style cartridges, standard ones,
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with it by taking the converter out.
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It's not a piston filler per se.
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It's originally a cartridge pen that's got a converter added to it.
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The company that makes it is called Mr Pen Limited,
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and it's based in the UK.
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The italics brand is just the brand they've created for this range of pens.
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Basically, they're a pen seller.
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I think they sell a whole range of other brands,
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but they make this one selling, which is great.
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Just a bit idiosyncratic to my way of thinking.
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The current price for this pen is under £50.
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It's a bit more expensive.
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It's not a thing to buy on a whim, really,
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though I guess I probably did that.
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You can use it with the cab off.
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It's quite a heavy, reasonable sized pen.
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You can post the cab, but I don't do that because it just changes the balance.
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You can see it close-up noises off today, sorry about that.
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There's an aeroplane, you haven't had them for a while.
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There's a fairly close-up picture of the nib.
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It's a pretty looking thing,
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and you can see the flat end to the nib, moderately wise.
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There's a medium size, so it's not huge.
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I've also shown the pen disassembled so you can see the converter in it as well.
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My handwriting example,
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I redid several times because I might have found my handwriting suits
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an italic pen much these days,
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really need to get back into more practice,
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because I do quite like writing that way.
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I suppose you might write a letter if you're into writing letters.
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That would be quite fun.
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You need to be slow and steady about it.
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I'm not sure I would want to write a sharpiness that way,
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but then I don't do that anyway these days.
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Moving on from the Fountain Benz to Mechanical Pencil,
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I've always quite enjoyed using Mechanical Pencils
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ever since they started to become available.
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Don't remember when really,
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when I was at university I was using them.
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They've been available for a long time for draftsmen and things like that,
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but using an old-style clutch pencil.
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I may be talking about that in another show,
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not sure if it's worth talking about the different styles.
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Anyway, this one is from a company called Unibor
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and it's called the Kuru Toga,
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it's from Japan.
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My son saw this pencil when he was in Japan in 2017
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and told me about it.
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It looked really, really nice.
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He and his girlfriend were going to be away for quite some time,
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so I checked with UK dealers and found that they stocked that particular make,
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and so I ordered one.
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This is it.
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I found it really pleasant to use.
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It's a plastic pen, it's nothing.
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Nothing spectacular.
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Pencil, I should say, it's nothing spectacular,
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but I find it's really nice,
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and it does this thing where rotates the lead in it as you write.
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Every time you press down on it,
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there's a mechanism inside that rotates the lead,
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so you don't end up with a flat side to the lead,
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which you can do with other star pencils.
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There's some pictures of it,
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and the cap and the end comes off,
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and there's an eraser.
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I've never been keen on using them,
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because they use them up,
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and they're not always that easy to get replacements for.
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It's a 0.5mm lead that it takes.
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There are an enormous number of pencils named Kurutoga.
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The guys went to Japan again last year,
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2019, I think so,
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and my daughter came back with one least,
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I think you've buy them themed.
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I think this was a Studio Ghibli one, she bought.
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I don't have it to hand, she's not around,
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but yeah, there's a lot of different versions,
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and different styles,
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and different branding and stuff on them.
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Quite a popular pencil anyway.
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There's not much of a range that you can buy in the UK,
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but the various online sellers seem to have a number of them.
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But I think mostly you need to get them from Japan,
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because they're interested.
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The final point in this episode is to mention paper,
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fountain pen, friendly papers,
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where I put it.
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The quality of the paper you use is important.
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You really want something that you can write on with a fountain pen
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without the writing looking horrible.
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Explain what I mean in a minute.
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More fountain pen-friendly paper types have become available
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in the past decade or so.
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When I was a kid using a fountain pen,
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you'd use school exercise books and that's everything,
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and they weren't always that good.
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They tended to blot, rather,
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and have problems with them.
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The various stationers and pen shops often sell paper brands
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that work well with fountain pens in my experience.
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So this time I'm talking about paper called
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from a company called Rodea, R-H-O-D-I-A.
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It's a smooth and quite heavy paper.
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The weight is usually 80 grams per square meter or greater.
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So that's quite a chunky paper.
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You can feel that it's not flimsy.
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And it's got a very smooth surface,
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fountain pen glides well over the paper.
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And the ink from the writing doesn't pass through the paper
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to the other side, which is one of the issues
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that you can get with lower quality paper.
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It doesn't show feathering
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where the writing strokes develop rough edges
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because the ink has soaked into the paper fibers.
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I made a little footnote here to say that
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when I was using the passons essential in my writing sample,
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I don't know how clear it is in the picture
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because I've shrunk the picture sizes
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and I haven't included the full size picture.
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But for this I used paper from a company that makes...
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I'm not sure who the company is,
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but they make these writing pads called Pucker Pads,
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P-U-S-K-K-A.
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It's a T-G-S-M paper,
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and it's got a grid marking on it, which I like.
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But it's not wonderful for all fountain pens.
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Either the ink or the nib on the passons essential
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didn't get on well with the Pucker Pads.
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So you can see that just on the edge of some of the strokes,
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there's a feathering of the ink,
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sort of sunk into the fibers of the paper.
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You wouldn't get that with the rodeo.
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If you're interested in knowing more about this,
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it's so called bleeding and ghosting.
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Bleeding with the ink passes through the paper
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and you can see it from the other side or even
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on the next sheet in your pad of book paper.
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And ghosting is where you can see the writing
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from the back paper.
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And so on, there's an article I've referenced here
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what's the difference between ink feathering,
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bleeding and ghosting,
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if you're interested in the whole business.
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And the terminology used.
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Anyway, going back to a rodeo,
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it's a French company quite long standing,
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established in 1934,
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and they make a wide range of paper products,
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and they also make writing implements
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such as mechanical pencils I discovered.
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But living as I do in a city with,
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that's Edinburgh, with six universities,
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a wide number of stationery shops around
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that cater to students.
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And they stock rodeo notebooks and pads.
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And often their prices are quite reasonable.
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Better, in fact, than you would often get on Amazon
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or the various stationery shops.
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So when I'm passing by,
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one of these student shops,
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I tend to grab some of these notepads of a can.
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It's the thing I collect.
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Quite like the grid and the dock papers.
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The example of a rodeo pad is an A51,
|
||
|
|
which has got lines and a margin.
|
||
|
|
The margin is huge.
|
||
|
|
I don't know why you would have paper
|
||
|
|
with such a wide margin.
|
||
|
|
But I just use this one for general gash, things.
|
||
|
|
I sometimes hang up with some friends
|
||
|
|
who are into a band of pens,
|
||
|
|
and having one of these around
|
||
|
|
to test out pens and stuff is really any quite nice.
|
||
|
|
So I like the grid paper.
|
||
|
|
I've used rodeo grid paper
|
||
|
|
for most of my writing samples in the photos of these notes.
|
||
|
|
So that's it really.
|
||
|
|
I think I will stop at that point.
|
||
|
|
I've got a few things that I want to talk about next time.
|
||
|
|
I'm nearly gone through all of my fountain pens,
|
||
|
|
but there's a few more other types of pens
|
||
|
|
and pencils and paper and inks and stuff
|
||
|
|
that I'll talk about later.
|
||
|
|
So that's it for the moment.
|
||
|
|
Okay then, bye-bye.
|
||
|
|
You've been listening to HecopobliGradio
|
||
|
|
at HecopobliGradio.org.
|
||
|
|
We are a community podcast network
|
||
|
|
that releases shows every weekday,
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||
|
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Monday through Friday.
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||
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|
Today's show, like all our shows,
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||
|
|
was contributed by an HPR listener like yourself.
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||
|
|
If you ever thought of recording a podcast,
|
||
|
|
then click on our contribute link
|
||
|
|
to find out how easy it really is.
|
||
|
|
HecopobliGradio was founded by the digital dog pound
|
||
|
|
and the Infonomicon Computer Club,
|
||
|
|
and is part of the binary revolution at binrev.com.
|
||
|
|
If you have comments on today's show,
|
||
|
|
please email the host directly,
|
||
|
|
leave a comment on the website
|
||
|
|
or record a follow-up episode yourself,
|
||
|
|
unless otherwise stated.
|
||
|
|
Today's show is released under
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||
|
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Creative Commons,
|
||
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Attribution,
|
||
|
|
ShareLife,
|
||
|
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3.0 license.
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