Update metadata and transcripts through end of July 2026
Refreshed episodes/hosts/comments/series from hpr.sql, and added official HPR transcripts for the 180 episodes aired since the last sync (hpr4516-hpr4695).
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Episode: 4626
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Title: Cable Management / PC Speakers
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Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr4626/hpr4626.mp3
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Transcribed: 2026-07-31 16:15:23 (official HPR transcript)
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---
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This is Hacker Public Radio Episode 4626, for 2026-04-27
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Today's show is entitled, "Cable Management / PC Speakers "
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The host is operat0r and the duration is 00:18:21
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The flag is Explicit, and the license is CC-BY-SA
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The summary is "operat0r talks about his Cable Management ,speakers and green screens"
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You are listening to a show from the Reserve Queue.
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This show was submitted in March 2025 to cover occasions like this
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where there are gaps in the schedule.
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Hello everyone and welcome to episode of Hacker Public Radio with your host, Operator.
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So I'm changing my format, which is good for you, not so great for me, because Kenneth
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is doing show notes for me and I don't know why.
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So I'm going to do better about show notes, good for you, it's going to be more clear
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and concise, hopefully.
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And so this one's going to be about cable management, PC speakers, and just general kind of
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cleanliness around the workspace of your desktop or your gaming system or your environment,
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work environment.
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So what I have now is I ordered actually a new ridiculous 49 inch monitor curve, so
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I'm going to have maybe potentially two monitors on this staining desk.
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The problem I have now is there's a steering wheel that's in the way.
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So I have to tilt the monitor to play a video game, and then I tilt it back for work.
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And there's a whole process, I have it for my child, it's a four-step process that says,
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you know, turn wheel, switch to zero, so it turns the steering wheel off, puts bigger
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desktop position, put H shifter into neutral, put pedals back to wood against the wall,
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close out steam, and any other game, close out, related windows, if the monitor back to
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it was returning standing desk, back to position number two setting, put chair back to
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desktop position.
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So like it's like, you know, whatever since that process, when he wants to do the simulator
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stuff.
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So I'm hoping to solve that with another monitor, nicer monitor, this is all piece
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crap, HDMI $100 old, my first IPS monitor, but I'm talking about cable management.
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I bought this loom, wire loom, there's BOA brand, and then there's this other brand,
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which doesn't really have a name, and the store is T-E-Z, I-I-C-U-S, that's actually
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the cheap brand, the one I, the good brand is BOA3, so I've already recorded this once.
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And now, nope, oh, it is, it is this T-E-E-T brand, yeah, so the picture doesn't do
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a justice, the picture looks just like the other stuff, but it is better.
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It's $29.89, I think it's substantially more expensive than the other stuff I bought,
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which is, let's see, for more, it's $20 for the cheap stuff.
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For the nicer stuff, it's $20 for like, half the amount, or like, two-thirds the amount.
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So, you're paying quite a difference, there's an extra $10, and you lose, so I don't
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$66 per count, and then this says nothing per count, so anyways, what's all said
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done?
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I got two different kinds.
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This BOA is the cheaper stuff, you'll see everywhere, it's pretty see-through,
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hold up to the window, it's see-through, this splits the other wire loom, T-E-Z-I-I-C-U-S
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store, you'll see a little picture, and I'll put it in the show notes, why choose
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us, then versus us, and it shows like, you know, the see-through of the fabric, and then
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it shows theirs, it's not hardly see-through at all, so it's a P-E-T polyethylene material
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inferior, or polyester, multi-fluent, but it's all, like, it's the same thing, it's all,
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what do you call it, whatever, so anyways, the way it works is it splits leave, now they
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have regular that's not, you know, Chinese handcuffs, you have to push the cable through
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the problem with that, is that if you have this giant dongle with whatever at the end, it
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will fit around, then you're not going to be able to, you know, get the non-splitted cable loom
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wire loom around, so I bought all-splitted loom, now to the link it look really nice, and
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to keep it snug, you can put a shrink tubing, and that has the same problem as the non-slit
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now to get around that, you can get bigger shrink tube, heat shrink tube, now heat
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shrink tube, you don't know what's electronic thing, you put a shrink tube around wires,
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and then you take a heat gun to it, try not to use the lighter, if you're going to be
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doing it, if you've ever used heat shrink tubing, and you don't, and you have heat shrink
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tubing, and using electronic, don't use the lighter, please go buy a heat gun, they have
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a thousand and one uses, I use the heat gun all the time for all kinds of crazy stuff,
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so just buy a heat gun, a nice one, and use a heat gun to heat shrink your tubing, now
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it's basically a piece of rubber that goes around whatever wire it is, or anything, honestly,
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and you can shrink it, apply heat to it, and it'll shrink it, now to get around the issues
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with not being able to fit, you can have a bigger heat shrink tube that will fit around the
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object, maybe a USB cable or a big giant dongle thing, and that will fit barely, right,
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and then you get a smaller heat shrink tubing, and you split that, you cut it
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in half, and then you wrap it around, you heat shrink the small thing first, and you put the bigger
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heat shrink tube around that, so you kind of have a better seal around the whole thing,
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because the big heat shrink is not going to heat shrink enough around the wire to get it to go
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there, but with a combination of split, cut in half heat shrink, smaller heat shrink tubing,
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and maybe some electric tape around towards the head of whatever the dogell is,
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you can get that solid strength, I've actually used Gorilla glue before, because it expands,
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so if I have a place where there's a small wire and a big old dongle thing, and then he's
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going to be plugged in at the end, I will actually make it really long, and use like a long,
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long thing of electric tape, and then I will heat shrink everywhere around that electric tape
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that I can, and then you can put the wire loom around that, but so I've got different sizes,
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the three forces is about the biggest, you would probably want to use on a computer,
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if you go the one inch, I think it's just too big, so the three forces are going to be
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probably the biggest you want to order, now the one fourth inch, I think is what I got,
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it's pretty small, but it holds for snuggling, very snuggling, it holds for like
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you know gauge 20 wires, or whatever that's beaker wire, that you crappy speaker wire you buy,
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it's like you know 20 gauge or even 18 gauge, but it's tiny wire that goes through these
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base shakers, and so it's for pair copper, or two pairs of like 18 gauge wire, and it snugly fits,
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so it looks nice, and it's all kind of taped on there, so there's not enough not as much
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chance to get a snag on something, I had some issues with audio on a kept reconnecting,
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you can actually eventually just start working, but another other places, if you have a
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dongle, it's a specified links proprietary, so my steel series, dongle is like three feet long,
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and I don't need but like a foot and a half, you can take that cable and run it all the way up and
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down itself, so kind of fold it in on itself, and what I'll do is kind of fold it into thirds,
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and I'll fold it into thirds, and I'll grab each fold, and I'll fold it into itself, and then I'll
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just keep adjusting the size of that, you know, that fold, the folds to reach wherever I want to
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reach, and then I'll velcro the end of the folds, and then I'll put the lume around that, so my steel
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series is nice and small, and then also the switch for my steering wheel is looped around itself.
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So it's really only one wire that goes to there, but it's like three wires being
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three or four wires, thickness, because it has to loop back on itself, and it's a switch, and it doesn't
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really, it doesn't really really whatever, so I've got, I'm using it in two places, really right now,
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but once I get the monitor on my move things around and change it up a little bit, but it definitely
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looks nicer, and it's less confusing too, I don't even need to label some of these cables now,
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but I know, okay, this cable is just, this cable is the headset, and this cable is the,
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so everything I see that's got a lume around it based on the size and where it is relatively
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looking, but you know, I look at this wire, I can't tell what this wire is, what is this,
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and then I follow it to the label printer, so get yourself a label anchor, and do the little
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stupid flags, they have specific tape for specific measuring, or for specific things like patch cables,
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so if you're a label in patch cables, don't do it like a child and make a flag like I do with
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everything else, they have specific labels for patch cables, they have like two millimeter,
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I think it's two millimeter tape, the same width as the other tape, and it's extremely
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wasteful, but it prints out in the middle, and then you pull peel this tiny little two millimeter
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tape out, and then you put it on whatever, the patch patch panel or something very thin,
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but it's like, I don't want to say it's like three millimeter thin, so I've used all types of
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various types of tape, I always end up just using regular, regular white tape, and then I'm
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wrapping around the flag, and I don't put it right up against, of course in these two, I did,
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but I usually put it like three, like three or four inches away from the plug, so that way,
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if I'm behind the computer, I'm looking behind it, I'm not having to look all the way where the plug
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is in, so I label it close, three or four or five inches away from where it plugs in at,
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so I can easily see what is what labels what for like stress cable stress, like this
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HDMI cable coming out of my PC, is got a zip tie, not a zip tie, don't use zip ties ever, a twist
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tie, so whenever you order something and you get twist ties, keep this twist ties, you can cut
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them in half, whatever, and use them for cable relief or temporary cable management, I use
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like to use Velcro for temporary cable management, double-sided Velcro or sorry, hook and loop,
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and hook and loop on both sides, you can get it really thin, and it's already pre,
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makes you try to get the pre cut stuff, it's not perfect, but it's nice to have like a consistent
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length, and so you can cut the pre cut in half, and you know, okay, I know that if I had the
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pre cut, I know if I cut it in half, that's going to be the length that I want, you know,
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I like I like to have to have the pre cut, because I don't have to worry about finances or cutting
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it too short or whatever, but it's up to you to cut the pre cut stuff or not, but it's a big
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roll of Velcro, or sorry, hook and loop, and you just pull and it comes apart, and then you can
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you know, wrap it every knee to wrap, as I'd like it temporary set up, but I've used, looks like
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I've got two twist ties on here, three, no, two, because the twist ties allow me to be dynamic,
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and so, you know, this twist tie is just taken off mount, because I'll move it around or something,
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and I haven't 100% decided on where it's going to go, so between the twist ties is kind of more
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temporary, if I know it's a cable, I'm going to swap out fairly often, so I've got like, it looks like
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I've got three twist ties on my PC right now, it doesn't look great, but that's more of a function
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over form, thick guy, so wherever you can put that, I use zip ties to establish mount points,
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so maybe I'll drill a hole in the case, and put a zip tie through that, and that zip tie is used
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for Velcro or twist twist ties for cable management, so also temporarily I have from the ceiling
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for green screen and stuff, I use these little, what are they called the binder clips, these things,
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I use them for temporary setups to hold stuff up, to lighting, hold lighting, and I use a little hook
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ceiling, and then some, you can buy bulk, random bulk pair of cord, and I use it for all kinds of
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stuff, I have some of these power guide holds for practicing rock climbing, and they have like
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all the way up to like what 10 millimeter holds and then through the through the wood holes, so it's
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like a little octagon, not many sides, you can go back to three school, but a shape with one, two,
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three, four, five sided shape, and different holds, so if I want to call, I'll stretch out my
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shoulders, so I'll put it behind me, and lean down and do, uh, get my handstrings, and do my
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shoulders and stretch all that out from getting kind of forward next syndrome and all that stuff,
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that's pretty much it for cable management, it doesn't look great under the desk, but there's
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not wires just hanging out, I only have like one service loop under the desk, but other than that,
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things are going to move a little bit when I affair them out when I get the new monitor,
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I might do dual monitors so that I don't have to turn the monitor or put the monitor on, like
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I was thought about putting the new monitor on a lazy Susan, and mounting it on a nice,
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sturdy lazy Susan, but I don't want to be rotating a giant monitor back and forth, so I might
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have like a little small office table in this room to fit somewhere else to do office stuff,
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and then have the gaming machine be just for gaming, because I can't quite get this whole
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double dual system to work with the standing desk, so I might take the standing desk and just,
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I don't know, I don't know, I want to use it, but I can't find a way to make a dual use for
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this stupid steering wheel and have it to remount the steering wheel every time, and I'm not buying
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a whole steering wheel set because I don't have enough room to have monitors and PCs to
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make it all worth it, so I also want to be able to play games at my PC, but I can't really do that
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when if I give the whole station to the steering wheel then I have to take up the steering wheel
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every time I want to play a game, so it's kind of a mishmosh, these studio speakers I bought,
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apparently PC speakers aren't a thing anymore, and what you have now is the studio speaker angle,
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apparently kids are just, I guess, wearing headsets, I don't know what they're doing,
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I don't know what they're doing now, I guess they're all just wearing headsets, but you,
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they're like $99 entry level of studios speakers, I was looking to some $100 or $200 pair,
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they're about $0, $3,4, and it's because you get a tweeter, and they do sound pretty good,
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but I don't have a sub, so I would like to get a sub to make your Copa boom, that's a piece I'm missing,
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I had a sub prior to the last sound setup I had, and I'm looking for that again to
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you know, when I'm playing games, boom, boom games, I can have nice, nice bass, now these bass
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shakers actually can be used as a sub sort of, but they're more for feedback,
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kept feedback on my racing games for their racing pedals, and those like 70 bucks,
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but that's a whole different topic for another day, so that's the cable loom,
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the nicer stuff is obviously more expensive, the cheap stuff is like 10 bucks for a lot of it,
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the nicer stuff, if you're gonna do like professional audio, or people are gonna be looking
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at the back of your rig, you want to use the nicer stuff, I think, because this stuff is at the
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ends, it's kind of freely and freely looking even when you melt it to death, it still doesn't really
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want to melt in a nice flat pattern, you might have better luck melting it by putting heating up an
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object, like a plate, metal plate heating, and this heat up, heat up that metal plate, and then
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smash it down in the metal plate, but then you have to separate it before it melts to itself,
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and we'll welding itself closed in a closed position, so yeah it doesn't look super great,
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but I think that's the reason why the the more expensive stuff looks better at the ends,
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because it's a nice and denser, and so when you melt it, it melts in a nice flat,
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even way, but the stuff that's more see-through and less dense, it kind of doesn't really
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look super great on the ends, and that's why people would want to probably put some,
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excuse me, we want to put stuff around it, let's see, um indoor outdoor double-sided non-slip,
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what is this, oh the power guidance, hand board, hang boards, rock climbing holds,
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yeah non-slip, nice, nice wood, one of these are on a great for a home office, you know,
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on a call, stretch out, these aren't even available anymore, I don't remember how much it
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calls, they're not cheap, 28 bucks, 35 bucks, prepare, and then green screen,
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the green screen I use is a circular, what do you call these things, you'll, you'll know when
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you hear it's a little pop out, pop up, tint, style, just twist it like a thing and you let it pop out,
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so it's supposed to a chat, touch the chair, that is not what I do, I hang it from the ceiling,
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so I can get the exact thing, and we put it to a chair, it's going to warp, and that warp is going
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to change the color, and we change the color, then it makes the green screen stuff not super,
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it kind of sketchy, so you want to just hang it from the ceiling, so you have that flat surface
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to be, if I had to do it again, I'd probably just buy a square green screen that maybe was folding,
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but I don't even fold it, I just throw it under the bed, I could throw it under the bed, but right
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now it's just kind of slid in between the bed and the dresser that nobody cares about, but that's
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pretty much it for this, you all have a good one, take it easy, and record an episode.
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You have been listening to the Hacker Public Radio podcast, at hackerpublicradio.org.
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Today's show was contributed by a HPR listener like yourself.
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If you ever thought of recording a podcast, then visit the HPR site to find out how easy it really is.
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Hosting for HPR has been kindly provided by anhonesthost.com, the Internet Archive, rsync.net, and the HPR Community Content Delivery Network.
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Unless otherwise stated, today's show is released under a Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 4.0 International (CC BY-SA 4.0) license.
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