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- MCP server with stdio transport for local use
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Episode: 3006
Title: HPR3006: Hijack Auxiliary Input of your car!
Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr3006/hpr3006.mp3
Transcribed: 2025-10-24 14:58:02
---
This is Hacker Public Radio Episode 3,064 Monday, 10 February 2020.
Today's show is entitled, High Jack or Exillary Input of Your Car. Quote,
it is hosted by operator
and is about 36 minutes long
and carries an explicit flag. The summary is,
I talk about my Q40 and getting auxiliary input when your car does not have one.
This episode of HPR is brought to you by archive.org.
Support universal access to all knowledge by heading over to archive.org forward slash donate.
Hello and welcome to in that episode of Hacker Public Radio. Headed to the office here,
probably going to be sitting in some traffic and I figured I would do a quick episode on my audio setup here for my Infinity Q40.
Now, basically I'm going to go over how to set up and troubleshoot and figure out wires and what they're doing and how they work inside of a car or in general electrical terms.
Like I said, I'm not any good at any of this, but I'll funnel my way through it.
And that's what the story is. So it's a story of troubleshooting and figuring things out and that's what hacking is all about.
First thing first, this all got brought about. I bought a 2015 Q40 base model, no nav, is what they call it.
And it has no navigation system. It has a LCD or a little screen here and some touch stuff.
But the only thing it has is a Bluetooth calling, which is separate, then Bluetooth audio.
And I think the audio quality is obviously worse than even Bluetooth.
So there's a couple of different kinds of Bluetooth that I know of.
So there's one that's like Bluetooth Bluetooth for your calls, which is like mono, really bad quality.
Like maybe it might be 50 kilobits or less. Sounds awful.
You can listen to like podcasts and things like that over it. And that's what I'll go over shortly.
And then there's Bluetooth audio, which most people won't tell the difference between Bluetooth audio and a regular auxiliary port or a standard in.
But there is a difference. And you'll notice, especially with these newer cars, they have better audio systems.
You'll notice that Bluetooth tends to kind of sound cooked a little bit, and depending on what car you have and what the system is.
And all the settings on your phone and all that stuff. But in general, it's going to sound a little bit cooked.
Bluetooth audio quality, despite what people think is not that good either.
So my car unfortunately doesn't have any auxiliary, auxiliary input.
It has a USB Apple ready shenanigans input.
And I might have done an episode on this already, but it basically has USB for for for a external device, mass storage device.
And it can read MP3s off of there. And it sort of kind of crashes sometimes if it's got malformed data and there's something like that.
And that worked for a little while and then you get bored of the same 10 songs on there.
And then if you get too big of a stick in there, it doesn't want to like search very well on it.
It kind of crafts out if you put like anything bigger than like an eight gig or 16 in there.
So did that for a while and kept searching, kept searching, kept searching.
And eventually I found a, now my car is a weird model.
It's a base Q40. It's kind of like Q50. It's kind of like the G37.
Despite all this, it's very weird and hard to find information about my car.
It might be like one or the other, but I don't know because it's not my car or it's not it's I'm not into all this car stuff.
So I don't know which is what and what model goes with what.
So if I need to know what model goes with that, I have to take the thing apart, look at the model and figure it out.
And what I found out later is that you want to find your car's not owner's manual, but you want to find the factory FSU factory service manual or the actual service manual, the factory manual, which is hundreds and hundreds and hundreds of pages.
So anyways, that's what you need to do any real troubleshooting with your actual vehicle.
The user manual is just garbage throwing a trash. It doesn't help anybody.
But so let's get through it.
So I'm having issues. I don't like the USB look online and I go and I ask around.
I can't find anything. I can't find anything and I do post online.
If you Google Q40 and like audio, my post comes up first. Like I'm the only person that has this car that has this problem.
And there's a couple other people that have a no nav system. I think like G37 might have a base model that has the same kind of issue.
But it's just kind of ridiculous, right? So I search and search and search. Eventually I find this thing called a cute wire link.
And it's spelled funny and I may have done an episode on this, but I'll post a link to my giant form post about all this crap.
But it's a wire link. It basically fools the computer on the in the car to think that it's an Apple device and it's very clunky and it's got software.
And it worked for about three, four years. I want to say five years. I've had this since 2000 something if it's 2015.
Anyways, it works for a while and it takes like 10 minutes to set up. So if I'm going somewhere 15 minutes down the street, I don't even bother messing with it.
And it got to the point where, you know, people would complain, my wife would complain and I would try to be fussing with it.
And you know, you're trying to drive the car. You're not supposed to miss with your phone. Anyways.
So I went back and forth, went back and forth. And I had this whole routine, you know, where I had to turn the, you know,
the stereo off and turn it back on and it's just very clunky. So I revisited the issue. This is this past couple of weeks.
I kept searching, kept searching, confining options. I ordered a harness kit that was supposed to be what I thought was a harness kit to get an auxiliary input from my car.
Of course, it came and it was only for like model 2011 and down. All the other stuff is for like older stuff.
People don't care about car audio like they did before. There's not a big aftermarket head unit space anymore.
And I don't know if it's just because of my Q40 and that's that's why and maybe I need to search for like G37 2015 or 13.
But anyways, there's just not a big market for at least my car or that stereo stuff anymore.
And the kids don't care about driving much less, puts audio stuff in their car anymore. So really, I mess with that.
So I revisited it, kept looking, kept looking. I saw some instances where people were taking the CD audio out.
And if I remember, I'll post the link. Actually, that's all in the form.
This one dude, like tears apart the radio. He tells you, you know, here's the circuits for this. Here's how the FM transmitter works. Here's how you hack into it.
And of course the FM transmitter was like not stereo. Somehow he was jacking into the mono feed that came in through the FM transmitter, even though it was like a digital signal or something.
I don't know. But I heard the word mono and I was like, okay, I definitely don't want to jack into my, definitely don't want to take my stereo part much less jacking all that just to check into a mono channel.
Then I saw him talking about the CD port and jacking into the CD port. And I want to say that was that was stereo, but I'm not 100% sure. I think in the video he did mono to his radio.
Anyways, so he's sowing us all this cool stuff and all this soldering and I'm not, I really don't want to do that. I'd rather steal audio from somewhere else.
So there's audio input from Bluetooth. There's audio input from the from the XM, which I have an XM here, which I don't use.
There's CD input and there's probably like zero to zero input that I don't even know about, which I can probably look at in my service manual now and find it and just jack into that instead of doing what I did.
Anyways, this all is around hijacking the XM inputs and troubleshooting and figuring out how that works and wiring it up to a auxiliary input for your car.
And I started, I saw like one video about this, a guy in a truck, you know, he pops down his, he pops down his, his, his glove box and looks in there and there's a box and it's a salad radio.
And he proceeds to, you know, pull the jumpers off or whatever and wire up the auxiliary input and whatever.
So I'm looking in my dashboard. I don't see anything. I'm looking under the under the dash. Don't see anything. I'll look around online. Of course, there's nothing on the internet about my car.
And I actually looked in behind the glove box, didn't see anything. And eventually I kept poking around and found out that it was in my trunk.
And I said, okay, here it is, this box in my trunk, this has to be it, whatever.
So then I proceed to try to figure out what wires, what, what's coming in, what's coming out, how's it working, how's it getting the signal, is it like an audio input or is it like a straight up, you know, you know, for wire stereo or for wire speaker input, whatever.
So I start taking that all apart. I think I start with my dash. I take apart the front and I take that all apart, pull out the stereo and I see all these harness cables and stuff and solve plug-in digital big mess.
Go through all that and I still can't find the salad radio. I was assuming it was going to be towards the front of the car.
So kept looking, kept looking, and eventually I found a, I think a forum post somebody talking about it being in their trunk and having to wire, they ran out of auxiliary wire to their trunk and then back or whatever, I don't know why, but they did it that way.
So I look at my trunk and I see that I pop it open and I take everything apart and I pull this, unplug this box.
And I have my satellite on the whole time and I unplug this box and I'm expecting the satellite to drop out. I'm like, man, wow, well, I've completely unplugged this box and the satellite is still working what the hell, where the hell is the fucking satellite.
So I eventually figured out that under that box or on top of that box that I just unplugged is another box and that box apparently was the satellite box.
So just by unplugging it while it's on and realizing that, you know, there's two boxes plugged into the trunk.
I said, okay, well, what is this box? We looked online, look at the bottom number and it says like, nav, nava, nava, uniter or something, something weird, like journey computer or some shit.
I'm like, what the, what is that? Finally, I have to see the word Bluetooth. I was like, oh, okay, so the Bluetooth computer module and all that crap is also on the trunk and this other box above it is the satellite radio.
Okay, so I've got the satellite radio unplugged. Now, what do I do? How do I figure this out? Okay, well, let me find the pin out for my satellite radio, nothing.
Let me try to find the pin out for this, for this, for this stereo, nothing. I can't Google anything. I can't find it. I see people posting, you know, pin outs for different stereos, things like that.
But I can't find the pin outs for my, you know, the manufacturers, pin outs for the whatever later, I realized it is all in like the service manual, the factory manual.
But anyways, I don't know any of this because I'm not into the whole car of C. So, I'm getting wires out, I'm trying to take the harness part and trying to pull apart the wires from the harness so that I can tap the wires.
Generally speaking, the easier way to do it is just get a little, you can get very tiny alligator clips that are like squishy, almost like needle alligator clips.
It's just a piece of wire for the mail-ins. And for the female ins, you can shove a paper clip in there and be careful not to short anything out, whatever.
And you can trace the wires that way. To do continuity test over long distances, you can just get to a long wire, like a speaker wire, something like that.
And then put alligator clips at both end of those, and you can do continuity tests over long distances, meaning if you're trying to trace a wire and you don't have a cable tracer or anything like that, that's the cheap way to do the wire tracing.
If you don't have a tone generator, definitely you want to try to get one. Let me get off an exit here.
You definitely want to try to get a tone generator if you are doing any kind of electronics and wiring outside of small electronics.
So I plug the tone generator onto one of the ends of the, I think, onto something, I think, to a paper clip onto the female end of the Sally radio.
And then I find the, one of the cables, at least one of the wires, at least going to the back. And I think I kind of left it at that.
And I said, this is probably where my input is. I doubt that the, you know, the power is different.
You know, the power is different from the, or the signal, usually you have a remote that's, to turn on and off the system for a device.
So you have a remote generally, and then you have like plus and minus or line in and then you have, or you have like four speaker wires.
So I assume that this is the right, the right harness wire, the right harness wire thing.
So I perceive to kind of unplug everything from the stereo, start trying to trace the wires.
And I, you can, in some of these little harness plugs, you can delicately, ever so delicately take them apart a little bit.
And so you can pull the individual pins out of them without too much, too much worry or problems.
And this allows you to jack in and, and, and like test the trace the wires or what I did is I wrapped.
I started unplugging cables until I found that I lost audio.
So I managed to find through this unplugging and plugging things in.
I managed to find the left and right cables, the left and right plus minus.
And, but I didn't know which side was plus and which side was minus.
I just unplugged the cable when I lost signal.
So there's probably a way with like an ohm's meter to check, you know, the input coming into the back of the stereo to see like if that's which side is plus and which side is minus.
But I couldn't get anybody to explain that to me.
So I knew that I had ground because I took up, took up the continuity tester and put it on ground.
And I found two ground wires.
I was like, okay, so I've got two grounds and two negatives somewhere and, and which I know of two wires.
And I've got, I've got a black and white wire that I know where the left side and I've got a green and red wire that I know where the right side.
But I don't know which is plus or minus and I don't know where to put four wires when you're trying to set up my auxiliary input, which is a standard stereo three wire plug.
So I start looking at stuff and actually co-worker missions by amp and I did some googling on by amp and I saw a different multitude of other different types of connections for audio.
And what I ran into was this, the auxiliary goes the top, the tip of the auxiliary 3.5 millimeter jack.
The tip is the tip, obviously, which is the left side and the middle is the right side and the bottom is the ground or the shield.
So, or tip is the top, the middle is green or right.
L is the left channel is the top or the tip and then the ground is the bottom, which is the shield or sheath or whatever they call it.
And that's where your ground is.
So, looking, looking, looking in what I come together is that the negative side always just goes to the ground and then the positive side goes to the top left.
So, for example, the top, the tip was the left side and then the right side plus is supposed to go to the middle, which is the ring.
So, googling around and I had like a little really crappy auxiliary cable so I wired that up and I took both inputs.
I pulled out the actual clip thing, delicately pulled out the wire.
From the harness, wrapped a cable or wrapped wire around one of the inputs and I got audio and it was all cracked up because it was split between the satellite and my input.
So, it was all screwy and sounded funny.
It was basically two inputs in one place.
So, I knew I was on to something but I still had the question of what is plus and minus.
So, I kept trying to find out what the kept trying to find out what it was.
I asked online, I couldn't really get anybody to respond.
And finally, I couldn't really find anything.
So, finally I made a post online at like I think it's my G37 or there's another one that's called whatever.
And that's on the form post.
And one of the guys, luckily for me, was paying attention and found on the page of my manual where that pin out was and posted the link to all the manuals.
For that entire thing, the field manuals or whatever.
And he posted and circled for me and everything.
The left side, the right side, the plus and minus.
And I already knew what the ground was.
And he's like, dude, look at the manual, it's not that hard type of thing.
So, I didn't know that that information, that highly detailed information about how the wiring of the car set up would be in there.
Like at the harness level, I had no idea that that would be in any kind of manual.
I thought it would be some kind of, you know, manufacture, you know, only type of thing.
But I get it, people are going to have to do, you know, car audio people are going to have to be able to do this stuff.
So, you have to have the manual available in some way.
And apparently it's not cheap to have the real manual, much less the digital form.
And there's some places you can get them out there for free on the website and get posted for it down to it.
But anyways, so I had my plus and I had my minus.
But before then, I was doing all this wiring.
And I was like, all right, well, I've reached the stopping point.
I've got my left and right side.
I need to wait and figure out which is plus because I don't want to have to guess.
And then have to rewire and twist wires and untwist and twist.
And the more you're back there, the more your fudzing around the more or whatever.
So I need to wait to see if I can get some help from my dad or somebody that knows about car audio or the forms.
So before then, before I got the answer to my post about the plus sign, I started to put it back to that back all together.
And everything seemed upset.
I did find the ECU, which is like the computer.
And I figured out that fairly quickly because when I unplugged it, the car would go all crazy.
When I was running it, the idle would jump up and down.
And it would still kind of run.
And I think I could put it in gear and everything.
But it would act really, really weird.
I don't.
So eventually I figured out that that was the ECU.
And I figured out, you know, the stereo, where most of the inputs were and went.
So I plugged everything back in and left everything kind of hanging there.
And my car starts to act in weird.
And this is like a late night.
That was like a night.
Finally getting all this stuff plugged back in.
And it's acting weird.
I can't figure out what's going on.
It's like not turning on.
The stereo is not working at all.
An indicator for me when I knew this stereo was working is that when I plugged it in, I would hear the ejection sound of the CD-ROM thing.
Like if you kids know what a CD-ROM is, my car has a CD-ROM player or CD player.
And when you plug in the stereo for the first time, you hear it.
And it's trying to eject whatever's in there by default.
So I didn't hear that.
I didn't have any of the dash stuff.
Nothing was lit up.
Something else didn't work.
The computer, the front panel, and then the dash was not lit up.
Something was obviously like really angry.
So I look and, you know, I seem to remember, you know, in generally, the, the, the, um,
the fuse box is the left of the steering wheel.
Under there and whatever.
And I just, I look and there's like a little thing where I can shove my key in.
There's like, you know, a little flat door and the hood release.
And I can't find the fuses.
So I proceed to go to the front of the car.
And I see like some big fuses and a few small fuses.
And I said, well, I don't see anything in here that looks like it's blown.
I looked at a couple of fuses and there was only like a few in there.
And I knew I was, I had been the back of my head.
I thought I figured I'd probably be blown a fuse.
But I looked and I didn't see anything else like me.
And I've like cooked like a computer.
I've done something wrong and I realized that I had plugged in something wrong.
And it's apparently not idiot proof the way my car wires were set up.
So there were three harness cables that were the same plugs that were the same.
And then there was two that were the same.
So I had three sets of the same plug and two sets of the same plug.
So if you plugged them in the wrong order, and that was while I was wondering,
while I put it back together, I was like, man, this wire will not reach at all.
I don't know how I got this part to plug back in.
Like this is, this doesn't seem right.
I can't even, I can't even plug this in.
Like physically can't get it there.
There's nothing no way at whatever.
And that's when I realized something was really wrong after everything was cooked.
So look, and I start pulling out relays.
And I look at the picture and I was like, I don't know what this is,
but this is not a fuse.
And I later realized that it's a relay that I was fudzing with.
And I swapped relays and I said, maybe that's it.
And like this is a big huge fuse thing.
There's no way this is the little fuse is like for the windshield wipers on that crap.
So talking and somebody said, oh, it's probably a fuse.
And I said, well, I don't know whatever.
And I got the Google course.
And I got the fuse, a location of the fuse thing.
And it's underway under there and back in the back of my car.
So I get to the fuse box for my car.
And I swear I've been down there before to reset stuff.
If I have been working with my battery or something and had to swap a fuse out.
I've been down there before, but it's been probably five years or something.
Or I had seen it before.
There were some spares in there and actually had to rob a fuse.
Because I'd blown three tin amp fuses and plugging things been backwards and sorting things out probably.
So I still, I robbed here to pay a poll.
There's a couple of spares in there.
And I get the thing going again.
And I say, look, let's make it a stopping point and just wait.
That's when I did the post for the plus minus.
And day later, I got my plus minus.
And last night, I was ready to plug it all in and get ready to go.
So I'm trying to think of any more troubleshooting stuff that I did.
Take pictures along the way, obviously.
And if what ends up happening with me is that if you don't take pictures,
you forget over time the order of kind of operations of how things were taken apart or put together.
So you end up having to spend an extra 10 minutes taking it back apart and putting it back together.
I had taken pictures and then like I do sometimes,
perched my pictures from my iPhone and then I didn't have any pictures of what I was taking apart.
Anyways, as far as troubleshooting and things like that,
I don't think there's anything else that I could think of troubleshooting or figuring things out
wise that I can help you guys with.
You know, almost meter, bolt meter, tone generator.
So you can hunt for cables and not have to sit there and prod every poke and prod every wire
with a continuity tester.
And you know, kind of test things out, measure twice, cut once type of thing.
So last night I finally made the decision that I was going to start cutting some wires.
So I pulled out the individual wires for each side, the four cables that I was going to pull.
And I didn't bother pulling the ground, which I don't think I needed anyways.
And pulled those out.
At first I was going to solder them in the car and I said,
you know what, that's not comfortable at all.
Let me do this the right way and I pulled out the actual pins,
the individual female pins for each part of the harness, the four wires,
and cut them half way.
You don't want to cut it too short on one end or short on the other one.
You want to leave as much room as you can so you want to kind of cut it in the middle.
Whenever you cut wires, you want to cut them in the middle.
Because if you cut it too far on each end,
you try to troubleshoot or splice back into the line and you're totally screwed
because there's nowhere to splice back into.
So at this point I've cut four wires and I've got them ready and soldered to the auxiliary port.
And I had ordered a little auxiliary port that you drill like a hole in your chassis.
Now drill the hole in your dash and install the auxiliary port.
So I had this little piece of plastic auxiliary port that looked kind of decent
and didn't take up too much room.
I had installed that or I had that ready to go.
And what I ended up doing was bringing it all inside and wiring it,
use lead solder.
I just recently did a port HPR on my little wiring issues and troubleshooting with that.
I used lead based solder now and I got a nice soldering iron.
Nice soldering iron.
Now I learned some tips from a guy down the street in my neighborhood.
So anyways, I make that all nice and pretty.
I put I solder the wires.
I don't crimp them.
I never crimp anything in your car.
Never crimp.
Now don't do those stupid crimpy things.
That's just not the way to do it.
My wife had that problem in her head unit.
She had swapped out a head unit and I had to go back in there twice before I finally, at the end of the day,
I had to re-s solder all new wire in there for four leads, four or five leads
because there wasn't enough service loop as what they call when you leave wire enough wire for you to do work on.
There was no room to do any work in there.
So I had to create, you know, I had to drop more wire in there and extend the wires out.
It was a mess.
So don't ever use those crimpy things or garbage.
They oxidize.
And then when you get oxidation, then you're completely screwed.
So soldered everything up.
I used some nice dustrink wire.
Try not to use a lighter if you can.
But it's because that direct heat.
And I've even tried to use a little blow torch ones.
Those are still bad.
You really want to get a heat gun.
And it's, it's funny.
And I used to, like, say, I don't need a heat gun.
I'll just use a torch or I'll use a lighter or whatever.
I will tell you, since we got that heat gun,
it has, I have used it a lot more than I thought I would actually use a heat gun, to be honest.
So the little heat guns are like pair tires on crack and they will burn you.
And you just use a heat gun and you put it on the shrink wire.
It's, it's the right way to do it.
You can get little mini heat guns.
But if you're going to get a heat gun, you might as well just get a big one so you can pull off like stickers and labels.
It's great for linoleum.
If you're pulling up linoleum or some kind of gooey nasty sticky stuff that's a giant blob.
You heat, you heat that thing up and it'll come right off.
Whatever you're working on, it'll come right off.
So anyways, everything all nice.
Nice and cramps and, and pretty and whatever.
And I decide where I'm going to drill my hole.
And I go back and forth and I'm like,
Oh, I'll put it right here.
And a lot of right now.
Any of the clearance.
I might need enough clearance over here.
Well, I could put it over here.
But then it would be kind of weird because like if my knee was in the way,
it might clip the, clip the input.
Well, I'll put it on the other side.
Well, then somebody else might clip it.
And there wasn't really a safe place to put because everything is so compact in these cars, right?
There wasn't really a safe place besides like the rubbery part of the dash to put it in.
And I didn't want to do that.
So I ended up running it through the,
the air intake, the, the filter for the air.
So I ran the little auxiliary port there.
I plugged everything back in.
And the audio is lower.
It's a, I guess the input coming from the,
the satellite is kind of louder than a,
a little bit louder than a traditional headphones.
And I heard that online from one other person,
at least one other person.
Now, if you want to get fancy,
you can pick up 12 volts somewhere from somewhere on the board.
Or somewhere on the harness,
wire that off, split that off and give yourself,
get yourself, get yourself a DAC or something like that to put in line with it.
And, and had I not already been,
spent the way too much time on it and really cared that much,
I tested the audio before and it was loud enough for me.
And I actually have, I was in the car while it was all wired up.
And I had the volume, the loudest it was,
and I had to turn it down because I couldn't listen to it that loud.
So, if you're going to go for like a high, you know,
high loud system, you're obviously kind of want to put a,
put a DAC in there or some kind of little amp,
a preamp before it goes to the head unit.
And if you're going to do all that,
then you're going to replace the head unit anyway.
So, for my use case,
I was just tired of having to worry about Bluetooth,
or any of that other crap.
It was a little report in my car.
And damn it, I got one.
So, probably took me, I want to say,
five hours total of work.
And then another, I want to say,
five hours of research and screaming.
There was a couple of instances of screaming where,
you know, I, you know, drop stuff or whatever.
It's impossible to get back there in the trunk with the wrenches.
But, that's pretty much it.
I ordered a fuse kit.
The newer ones are the smaller fuses.
So, I gave some to my wife or whatever.
And I like it, listen to it here on the way to work.
And, but what I'll say,
what I did learn is one,
get your manual, the actual field manual,
the service manual for your car,
not the owner's manual, get the factory manual,
figure out your pinouts and figure out what your options are,
figure out what the model numbers of your things are
and post online or search and say,
hey, I have a G37, 2000, whatever,
I want to whatever.
And, and all of the other cars I swear,
every single other car had the infinity cars
had some kind of unit.
The only thing mine had was a Bluetooth unit.
One was like $700.
The other was like $800.
And I found another one that just straight up
would like to hijack the video.
And you just drop a,
you drop a Raspberry Pi in there or whatever
and replace the onboard,
whatever with a,
with a mirror device or whatever.
And I was like,
I don't, that's just way over.
Because I just want auxiliary input.
I want decent quality audio coming out of my device
and whatever.
So, it's pretty much it.
I don't know what else I can,
I can, I tell you with,
there's an old trick.
Because a lot of these cars
have screws way down at the bottom.
And when you drop them,
God forbid you drop a screw
behind your head unit
or behind your inside your car
because they'll never find it again.
Or even a socket.
If you have a socket set,
you lose a socket back there or a bit.
You want to do a little trick.
You get a very strong magnet.
You can get an old hard drive
and get a whole old hard drive magnet.
Or you can buy Home Depot cells
like high power magnets,
which are great to play around with.
Do not let your kids play with them.
And you rake,
you magnetize the screw driver
and you rake it across the screwdriver
and magnetize it.
So that way,
hopefully you're not using aluminum screws.
But if they're magnetic,
you can put the screw
on there and it will stay on there.
So as you're wiggling around
and trying to screw in,
it's not going to fall off
and cause you to swear and cuss.
Who's your mind?
That's one tip.
Just take your time.
Measure twice, cut once.
Take your time.
If you're frustrated,
come back to it.
Try not to do it all in one go.
And learn something.
So I'll say I learned that.
I learned to do,
look for the manual.
I learned, um, you know,
a little bit about how to trace wires,
a little bit more maybe.
And, um,
and a little bit that the cars nowadays
are a lot easier to take apart,
I feel like.
Before, you know,
you'd have to take your whole dash off
to like half of your dash off
just to get to the,
to the guts of the head unit.
Um, but now with these LCDs
and smart,
whatever they make them,
so they're pretty easy to swap out.
Anyways,
um,
we don't have to give,
take up any more of your time.
You all have a good one.
And, uh,
if you've done anything
and,
and got anything interesting,
feel free to record something
and, uh,
teach somebody something
and provide, uh,
some value to the community.
Later.
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