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Lee Hanken
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hpr_transcripts/hpr3088.txt
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hpr_transcripts/hpr3088.txt
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Episode: 3088
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Title: HPR3088: Matchbox Restoration Part 2
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Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr3088/hpr3088.mp3
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Transcribed: 2025-10-24 16:32:56
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---
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This is Hacker Public Radio Episode 3888 for Wednesday 3 June 2020.
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Today's show is entitled Matchbox Restoration Part 2.
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It is hosted by Tony Hughes, aka Tony H1212,
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and is about five minutes long
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and carries a clean flag. The summer is
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second episode discussing restoring matchbox diecast models,
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Tony talks tools and materials needed.
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This episode of HPR is brought to you by archive.org.
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Support universal access to all knowledge
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by heading over to archive.org forward slash donate.
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.
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.
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.
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Hello, all in Hacker Public Radio Land.
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This is Tony Hughes, coming to you from Blackpool in the UK.
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I hope you're all keeping well in the current time of restrictions due to the coronavirus.
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In this, the second episode of my recordings talking about restoring
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of matchbox and other diecast models.
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I'm going to talk of the equipment we'll need and find essential
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and some of the other things that while at the start you could live without
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but as you get into the hobby you may find extremely.
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So the first thing you'll need is a drill
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for drilling the posts out on the model,
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both to aid in dismantling them.
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And if you plan to reassemble with the aid of small screws
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to drill a hole in the post for tapping to accommodate the screws.
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This can be a hand held wired or cordless drill
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or if you ever work shop with a drill press
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or the better as this can be used in several ways
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during the reassembly process of the model.
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That is on my wish list as I don't have one at the moment.
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Second, you'll need a set of modeling files
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for removing the burr on the ax
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to remove the and the plastic wheels off the bases
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of the model to allow for repainting you've required.
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Why are brushes cleaning the remains of any paint
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that didn't get removed by the paint stripper
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and he mistactic clamp tweezers or crocodile grips on a rod
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for use to hold the models during spray painting.
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Additionally, although you can start doing restorations
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without these, the following may become very useful
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to help save time and achieve better finishes
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of the completed restoration.
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A rotary tool, most well known of these, the Dremel,
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but there are many other manufacturers of similar tools
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and at more economic cost.
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However, beware you do get what you pay for.
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And you may find buying the cheapest of false economy.
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My cheap little rotary tool,
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which I've had for a few years,
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but barely used, failed after five months of use
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a few weeks ago.
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The chuck ring thread strip,
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and it will no longer hold bits in the chuck.
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The rotary tool makes the removal of axles
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a very quick job and cleaning paint strip castings
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with a way of rotary brush.
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Another thing you may find useful is a small spray booth
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with an extractor fan and filter for removing over spray
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from the area you paint in there.
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If doing this indoors,
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particularly if your workshop is in the house,
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although one YouTuber,
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modeler I follow,
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sprays his models on the cooker
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with the cooker extractor fan
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on to achieve a similar result
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when painting indoors.
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Not sure what his wife thinks.
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Finally, you may wish to put a compressor
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and spray them on.
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If you get hooked,
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and this gives you a far better range of colours
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in painting as you can mix your own shade.
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Some of the communities are sticklers
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for trying to get an exact match
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to the original colour of the model.
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Others like me at the moment
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are happy to use shop bought spray paint can.
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A small table vice is also useful for holding the model.
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A set of helping hands for the same reason,
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but you can use these for during the painting process,
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particularly when painting fine details.
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So that's the tools.
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Now what about consumables?
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For the obviously one these gloves
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and these come in a couple of varieties
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rubber washing up gloves to protect
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from some of the chemicals used
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to strip paint.
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Latex gloves for using when spray painting,
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as you have more control on wearing these
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rather than a looser fitting.
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And work gloves for use when drilling
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or using other tools or sanding
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and things like a paint face mask
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to prevent inhaling fuel.
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Paint stripper.
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I use the B&Q dial own brand paint stripper.
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I also use caustic soda for the same thing.
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Occasionally one will work
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when the other fails to remove the paint.
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It depends on the original paint apply to the model.
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Model filler for repairing dents in the casting.
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Wear a wool and several gates
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of wet and dry sanding paper
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to smooth models
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after filler has been used.
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Super glue, useful for repairs
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where a quick setting me.
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And of course cans of spray paint to repaint the model
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both primer and the final colour you want.
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You may also want a canner to clear coat
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to give that extra protection
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after painting or giving a gloss finish
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if the paint was a matte or satin.
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Not essential at the start
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but I also use a UV resin glue
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that cures very quickly after exposure
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to a UV light tool.
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This can be added and cured in layers
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and remains flexible
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so it can be useful for repairs on cables
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as well as for me modeling.
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Finally you need your first model
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to start work on.
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These can be found in charity shops.
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Online option sites
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or maybe in the loft
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or garage if you've got any of your old
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childhood models kicking
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needing to be real
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later in the series I'll talk about other things you may add
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to the consumables
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as you get more into the heart.
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So that's it for this episode.
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The next episode I'll talk through
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me dismantling the model for restoration.
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So this is Tony Hughes for HBR
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signing off for this episode.
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Keep safe and I'll be back soon.
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You've been listening to HECK
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Public Radio at HECKPublicRadio.org.
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We are a community podcast
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network that releases shows
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every weekday Monday through Friday.
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Today's show, like all our shows,
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was contributed by an HBR listener
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like yourself.
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If you ever thought of recording a podcast
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then click on our contributing
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to find out how easy it really is.
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HECKPublic Radio was founded
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by the digital dog pound
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and the Infonomicon Computer Club
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and is part of the binary
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revolution at binrev.com.
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If you have comments on today's show
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please email the host directly
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leave a comment on the website
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or record a follow-up episode yourself.
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Unless otherwise status
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today's show is released on the
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Creative Commons Attribution
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ShareLight 3.0 license.
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