hpr-knowledge-base/hpr_transcripts/hpr2407.txt

Episode: 2407
Title: HPR2407: The Lost Episode Part 2
Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr2407/hpr2407.mp3
Transcribed: 2025-10-19 02:26:14

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This is HBR episode 2477 entitled The Lost Episode Part 2.
It is hosted by AniBill and is about 22 minutes long and carrying a clean flag.
The summer is.
AniBill talks about flashing firmware to add a 328 b-chip to get a transistor tester kit
working.
This episode of HBR is brought to you by AnanasThost.com.
At 15% discount on all shared hosting with the offer code HBR15, that's HBR15.
Better web hosting that's honest and fair at AnanasThost.com.
Hello, this is AniBill and I'm back to do a follow up to what I called The Lost Episode.
It was a while back there.
It was about a transistor tester kit that I got from China that after I built it up, it
did not work at all.
What I found at the end of the previous episode is some of these tester kits.
This is an open source project, the code for these transistor kits.
It seems that some Chinese manufacturers have taken like the specs or the board builds
of this open source project and are making boards for it.
They're sending you kits.
It's the board.
It's all the parts you need to build the kit but what some of these guys are not doing
is they're not flashing the firmware onto the Atmel chip, that's the brains of this
thing.
When I built up my kit, I stuck my battery in there, I pressed the button on the rotary
encoder, which should turn the board on and it just lights up the screen and there's
nothing else.
There was a long adventure, digging into AVR-DUDE and AVR-DUDES and flashing these chips
and having to find X packages and e-proms and, well, I'll go over to a bit here.
So let me find this bookmark.
I have so many bookmarks I've been doing this for probably five hours, hours yesterday
and hours this morning.
So I'll link to some of this stuff in the show notes.
The first thing that I started doing the show notes already, the first thing I linked
to is the PDF for the guys who are doing this project.
I think, well, it's two guys that have been running this project.
I'm not going to be able to pronounce their names because it looks like it might be
German.
I don't know if one guy started it and the second guy picked it up or they're both still
involved, but the one guy is Marcus Friedrich and the other guy is Karl Heintz, Kubeiler,
Kubeiler, K-U, BB, EL, ER, with the Umla on the U. Sorry, I know I'm butchering you guys
names, but that's the first, the PDF you're going to look at.
It goes through an explanation of the whole project where it came from, the different boards,
the different boards that are out there, it goes into some of how to flash it.
It links to where you can get the hex code, well, I'll get into that in a second.
Anyways, this is a good resource.
The other thing I found out that I needed was I had an Arduino and I kept putting this
chip in the Arduino and trying to push the firmware to this chip with the Arduino.
I guess you cannot do that.
From what I'm reading is the Arduino has its own bootloader and it's just that bootloader
is there to run the Arduino and to upload its sketches.
What we're doing with this chip in this tester is it's a blank chip, there's nothing on
it.
You're going to put the hex code in there and you're going to put your own like eProm bootloader.
It really has nothing to do with the Arduino.
It's just that the Arduino uses this chip as well.
If you go searching for stuff like I did online, like DIY 2016, transistor kit, anything,
you're going to end up in an Arduino site and it was just leading me down the wrong path
left and right.
If nothing else, maybe this episode will help you not to have to go down all these different
paths.
You're going to go down paths of different Atmel chips, different Atmel chips in different
products.
These things have been used for years and years.
It's not just the Arduino that came out with them.
They've been in microcontrollers and like controlling PLCs and things like that for years
and years.
Anyways, the first thing I had to do was order a programmer.
So the programmer was like $8, it was an Amazon, it's, I can take a picture of that too.
It's a USB, oh darn, I forgot the name of it already.
USB ABR.
Bring it up, bear with me.
A USB ASB and it's by a company that is FISCHI.de but there are like 40 or more of these
boards.
So depending on which one you get, you're just going to have to know which kind it is because
you're going to have to put those values in here in Averdude or what I want to talk
about after that.
Next thing you do is you need to put your blank chip, well I put my blank chip in the Arduino
Uno board.
You can get a separate, you can do this on a breadboard with a couple of capacitors and
things.
Just link to the right to the chip because this programmer is going to power the chip.
You don't really need there, I'm not using the Arduino to use any of its internal circuitry
or its power supply or anything like that, I don't even think I'm using it's crystal
at this point.
So out of the programmer you have VCC and ground, you have MOSI so input, MOSO output, there's
one pin that's not used on this header, you got a reset and an SCK, I think that refers
to how fast you want to communicate, you change the frequency.
And this particular board has 3.3 volts and a 5 volt jumper.
If you're getting a board you might as well look for one with a jumper because I think
if you're going to use this for other products it's going to be 3.3 volts like an RPAI.
But the Arduino is 5 volts so I got this in 5 volts.
You take all of those pin outs, the ground, the VCC, the SCK, the input output and the
reset and you jumper them over onto the, I did onto the Arduino, there is a programmer
header, a 6 pin programmer header, I'll take a picture of this, you can see it's female
female jumpers until I ran out of jumpers and then I used a alligator clip for the reset.
After that you plug in your board, let me just stick it in there and do an L, and don't
still tee everywhere, all righty, do an L, S, U, S, B, so mine pops up on bus 1, the
vice 48, and it gives an ID, the vendor ID, and oh geez, I wonder if this is maybe Swedish
or Dutch, Van Oengin, I can't pronounce any of these, oh maybe it's German, that looks
like, anyways, there's my device, it's showing up, it's on bus 1, it's on bus 48, what you're
going to find is you can't communicate to this device because you don't have right or
read access to that bus, so what you can do there is a Soudu, Jamad, plus 777, and do it
on dev bus, USB, and then in my case it's 001, 048, password, did anyone just figure out
my password length by counting those clicks? All right, so there, okay, so I changed the
permissions, now I can write to this programmer which in turn should be able to write to the
chip, so here's the next step, the AVR dude, you've got to make sure that the programmer
can see the chip, and that the chip is ready to accept the construction, so that is AVR
dude, oh I think I have to sue do that, or do I, maybe not, AV, then a minus C, and then
you need to choose your programmer here, in my case it's the USB, AVR, no, USB, ASP, then
a minus P, now you're going to tell them, tell AVR dude, if I spell it right and stick
in the end of there, what chip you're trying to program, in my case it's the Atmel 328P,
so that's, if you do a C with nothing after it, or you do a P with nothing after it, it's
going to give you a list of chips, and it's going to give you a list of programmers,
so you can just, you go through, you find your programmer, so once again, it minus, AVR
dude, minus C, USB, ASP, minus P, M, 328P, then if you hit enter there, it's going to
go out, it's going to check the board, it's saying yes, I can see the board, the device
of signature is this, it's, the fuse is okay, it's, you're basically ready to use this
setup, to push your hex and your e-prom too, so you go to, you go to the location where
you have your hex file and your EEP, certain places I went, it was like a GitHub thing,
and I'd pull in like the whole repository, and I'd have to do a make file, other spots
on the net, I found someone already pre-compiled the hex and the EEP, I don't know how trustworthy
that is, anyways, you follow in the PDF where it's going to send you off, in my case it
was the, M, I can look that up, M, if you get this same exact board, this might help if
I tell you which, which set of firmware I used, I'll load, is the M, 328 underscore
color, underscore kit, well you're going to download transistor tester, M, 328 underscore
color, underscore kit, kit dot tar dot GC, and when you extract that, sets up a folder,
and in that folder was the hex file and the EEP file, so the next thing you do, or the
next thing I did, for like hours yesterday, and hours this morning, I pull the chip out
of the tester, well I went to get, if anybody's going to do this, and you're going to order
a board already, and you don't have one of these, sorry I'm talking while I'm still cleaning
up tea that I just spilled everywhere, get a chip lifter, a chip lifter is a little, it's
a little screwdriver looking thing, but the end of it is hooked, and it looks like a, like
the back of a claw hammer, so that can just get under the chip, and you can slowly lift
it up, because if you try and pull, a socketed chip out of your fingers, you might get it
done once out of ten times, but the other nine times you're going to bend the pins all
the hell, so I find a chip lifter, that's handy tool to put in your kit, anyways I pull
the chip out of the tester, I put it in the board, plug in the board, find the board, set
my permissions right, get everything ready to burn, then I'd go back to Averdude, and
it's the same as before, the UC with the put your board, and then the UP, you put your chip,
and then you do a dash, capital P, now you're going to tell it what port to use, so in my
case it was dev bus USB 1, and then what were we on, I forget it was 48 or something, this
increments every time you plug the thing in and out, then you got to tell it which file
to flash, so you're going to do a capital, dash capital U, flash, colon W, colon, and in my
case transistor tester dot hex, colon I, and then you don't have to do this, but I like
to do a slash V, just so I can get the verbose read out in case there's any errors, when
you're flashing this, flash the hex first, because if you flash the e-prom, and then you
flash the hex, the hex just got to write right over the e-prom, so make sure you do this,
so we do that one, and then the next thing is put the e-prom, it looks almost exactly the
time, Averdude, you put your board, you put your chip, you put the bus location, then
you do flash, colon W, colon, and in my case transistor tester dot EEP, don't do the
trailing colon I at this time, and then I did verbose again, and I did this like, must
have been 20 times, it looks like it goes through, it verifies, everything's clean, I put
the chip out, put it back in the tester, plug my battery in, press the button, and it's
the same as it was, just the screen just lights up and nothing happens, this is where another
program came in handy, I started reading about Averdude S, Averdude S is a GUI front end for Averdude,
and I downloaded it and installed it just to see if it would, maybe it would give me some more
information that I wasn't seeing just with the Averdude, and it turns out that was the case.
This is a Windows program, if you're running Windows, you can pull it in, run it, no problem,
if you're running Linux, you got to run it with mono, which, you know, you have to add the
repository for mono and go get mono complete, but, and then you know, that's, that could be an
episode in itself, but you'll get Averdude S running, and here I have it in front of me,
so here, to flash your chip with Averdude S, Dudes, top left, you pick your programmer, and I can
scroll here, there is a list of, there's got to be 40 programmers, so there's my programmer near
the bottom of the list, I select that, and then that just kind of, uh, sets up the speed that the
programmer's going to want to use, if you want to put your port in here, you can, but we actually
took care of that earlier, to the right of that you pick your chip, which in this case is the
at mega, there it is, nope, that's not it, I wish they put them in order of the, the numbers coming
up, they jump all over the place, that mega there it is 3 to 8 p, below on the left, the next line
below is where you're going to select your flash, this looks very windows-y to me, I haven't seen
this all this light blue in a long time, but you just go through your folder structure, find your
hex file, click on that, below that you go, same thing, select your e-prom, so we go to find that
.eep, and then I hit program, and below is a window, and you can see AverDude running, just like it
did before, and it spits out, and it verifies, and it's complete, and I pulled the chip out, and I put
it back in the tester, and I'm right back where I was, nothing, I pressed the button, and it's just
a white screen, so I'm starting to like lose it at this point, then I notice AverDudeus has
radio buttons in the flash and the e-prom section that say verify, so I stick the chip back in,
and I go up, I click the radio button to verify, I click go, and there it spits out the error,
the error is, geez, I wish I took a picture of that, because I don't remember exactly what it was,
but in my case, the error was the fuses and lock bits, we're not set correctly,
so there maybe there's a way to do that in AverDude on the command line, but I'm brand new to all
this, and I don't know all the flags and switches yet, so the GUI did help me in this case,
what I needed to do was go underneath where you select the chip in AverDudeus, you'll see fuses and
lock bits, you can click a button to read them, and then the problem I was having was with e,
the lock bit, I don't know if it's a fuser lock bit, in my case it's an OXFD, that's the setting
that's in there, what it needs to be is OX04, and what AverDudeus just allowed me to easily do is go
up to that field right next to it, and just change it to OX04, I go back to flash and e-prom,
set them to right, I hit program, and the thing programs, I hit verify, and they both verify,
ah, that was an exciting moment, pull the chip back out, put it in the tester, press the button
down, I see that white screen, I feel a little dejected again, but then all of a sudden the screen
turns blue, and I see the boot up happening, so we're making progress there, I can see a screen,
I'm familiar with another tester that I have, the problem I ran into then was as soon as I
left up on the button on the rotary encoder, everything goes away, the board is not latching,
what's supposed to happen is you press the button, pin six on the chip is going to go high,
to five volts, power the board, and then in programming, is you know how long the board's
going to stay on 30 seconds or 40 seconds, I don't know what they have that set to, but then that pin
pin six will go low and shut the board off, so every time you use this you just you press the
rotary encoder in, it turns it on, you do your test, and then it'll just auto shut off, I wasn't
latching, so I thought it was going to be like down the rabbit hole again, and let's go online,
and scratch our heads for another three days trying to figure this out, and this one only took five
minutes because it was a pep cack, and it was my fault, I had the LED at the top of this tester in
backwards of all things, once I pulled that out with the solder sucker I got it right, and I press
the rotary encoder, I'll do it right now, boom, LED light comes on, it's going through its boot
sequence, it's going to look for a component to test, so we have a working board now, finally,
this has been a long journey, like what, 12, 14 months with this thing, the next thing if you
get any of these boards, and whether they work right on the box or work right after the build,
or you need to go through this flashing process like I did, the next step is a calibration,
it should explain that with the instructions that come with it, or it's in that PDF,
you'll get a big capacitor that's sticking here, and go to a calibration setting, and it checks
that capacitance, as like a reference, and then you build a jumper wire, which actually two
jumper wires to make like the shape of an M, there are three pads in here, there's like an A-pad, B-pad,
C-pad, if you're going to test the resistor, or a capacitor, you can do it like on A to B-pad,
or B to C-pad, or A to C-pad, it doesn't matter, it's a two-prong thing, a capacitor or a resistor,
you just stick it in and test it, if you're going to test a transistor, that's a three-prong,
that's got three leads, you need to have one lead in the A-pad, one lead in the B and one in the C,
so you make this jumper to go in A, B, C, just basically short them out, so it's going to calibrate
and get a shorted value, after that simple calibration, these things are ready to use, and I carry one
around with me in the blue bag, I have it here, I'll take a picture of these, the one on the right
is one that I bought after buying this initial kit, I got this kit, I built it up, it didn't work,
I couldn't figure out why way back when, and then I noticed there was another kit that came in a case,
well it comes with a case, and it looked like it would be a little more robust for putting in my
blue hacker bag and carrying around instead of just a bare board, like this other one is,
I had plans to get one of my buddies to help me 3D print a case for this, the kit that wasn't
working, but I never got around to it because I never got it to work, maybe that can be another
episode, I'll 3D print a case for this, anyways, I took a picture and the one on the right is the
tester that I carry around with me in my bag, they both do the same exact thing, this one just comes
with it, like a heavy duty kind of a professional looking case, this was the one that I took to the
and my buddy Pico said, oh wow, that looks really cool, and he goes, will you sell it to me?
And I said, well sure, yeah, how much do you want to buy it for? He goes, well how much do you pay for
it? And I said, well the kit was 1999, he goes, here's a 20, so that was the joke that went on in
the lug there that, oh, you know, for my labor of soldering the kit up, I made a penny, and then
the joke got worse later in the lug because he looks up to me and he goes, hang on, did this come
with a battery? So then basically I put a battery in it, so I lost money on that deal, anyways,
I was happy to give it to him, I was happy to get another kit, like I said, this is that second kit
that I built up, I keep this in my blue bag, now I have this other kit, the one without a case,
and I have it working now, maybe I'll put it in a case, maybe somebody at the lug can use it, or
like I've said before, nieces or nephews growing up, I've got lots of little tools they can use and
figure things out without burning up expensive equipment. So there you have it, if you get one of
these boards, I hope it works for you, if it doesn't work for you, that's going to be even better
because that's where you're going to learn more, if you need to flash the firmware, I know I just
like whizzed through what I did, but it's all new to me and I'm kind of doing this episode while
it's all fresh in my mind, so if you get into trouble, like trying to flash it, like send me an email
and I'll try and point you in a direction or give you direct help so that you don't have to go waste
like three hours out on the internet trying to find these answers that took me forever to find.
So my email is nybill at GunMonkeyNet.net, and I'm on the mastodon thingy still, and you can,
if you want, make a comment in the show notes and we'll have a conversation there. All right,
until next time, guys.
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