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145 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
145 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
Episode: 2148
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Title: HPR2148: The DSO138 Oscilloscope Kit Part 2
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Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr2148/hpr2148.mp3
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Transcribed: 2025-10-18 14:55:34
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---
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This is HBR episode 2,148 entitled for the SO-138 Osilov Kit Part 2.
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It is hosted by Enable and is about 13 minutes long.
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The summary is, in this episode Enable talks about finishing the SO-138 Osilov Kit.
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This episode of HBR is brought to you by Ananasthaus.com.
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Get 15% discount on all shared hosting with the offer code HBR15.
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That's HBR15.
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Better web hosting that's honest and fair at Ananasthaus.com.
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Hello, this is Enable and I thought I'd do an HBR a little follow up to an earlier HBR I did.
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As I know Ken is curious if I ever got this little scope working.
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This is a follow up to the, well it was the Sainsmart DSO-138 Kit, a little scope kit.
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I haven't played with it like since I did that HBR it's just sometimes I get into projects
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and I'm looking at like four of them on the desk right now so they just get put aside
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and then whenever I get back around to it I get back around to it so it's been months
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since I played with this thing.
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What brought it around to me playing around with it again was I got to thinking if you listen
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to the previous episode you'll see that JYE Tech says that they are the original makers
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of the board and that Sainsmart had copied them or pirated them so one day I was on Amazon
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I forget what I was doing and this is how some of these projects go for me.
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I'm clicking around on something and before you know it I've ordered something.
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I saw the JYE DSO-138 scope kit on Amazon for $22 and I said to myself you know what I'll
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just get this I'll put the original JYE Tech scope together solder that up and if I get
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that working I'll be able to use that as a reference and go back and forth to the
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Sainsmart one and look at voltage and you know check different points on the board and
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see if I can see the discrepancy between the two as to why the Sainsmart scope is sending
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the trace slamming it right to the top.
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So I did build the JYE the red board it's off to my left here and then I was messing around
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looking at that one to the Sainsmart board and I found a bad solder joint on J4 so jump
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or four what you do is you build up this board and then you go and you test little points
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you know here and there and they tell you how much voltage you should have at each point
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and if all of that looks good then you short out J4 and what that does is it sends power
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to the main chip because if you got something going wrong in the power splayer yet you don't
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want to send nine volts to this little this little brain here the CPU inside it because
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you'll just try the thing.
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So way back when I soldered that up I don't know if it was a dry joint or a partial joint
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or but anyways I on did it and then I wanted to check voltages again when I on did when
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I on solder that J4 I noticed the like the board was damaged and like the pad had lifted
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so I had too much heat there for too long way back in the past I don't know if it was making
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a partial connection it must have been because the screen would go to the boot screen so
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it must have been sending the three volts anyways that's either here nor there I fixed
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that a little bit a little piece of wire some people call it a bodge but that's the only
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way I had no pad left so they just had to put a little piece of wire in there to make
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the connection between J4.
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The other thing that happened with this board is if you listen to the previous episode
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I mixed up what was it I think our one K and a one mega resistor let me look quick.
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One K and a 10K I think that's what I had I had those mixed up on the board a one tenet
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one tenet yeah one K and a 10K resistor I had fixed that way back when and then I just
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never really messed around this board again so here's what it kind of turns out what I think
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might have happened plus I checked other solder joints I checked over this whole thing I don't
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know if when I had the one K and the 10K resistors mixed up and I sent power out to this thing
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it slammed that trace right up and thought that was its original calibration you know I got the
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wrong resistors in the wrong spot and that was its first boot up and it thinks okay this is the
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way I'm supposed to run and bam it was slammed up to the top way back when I fixed those resistors
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I haven't messed around with the board again today I fixed that J4 or I did the J4 a little better
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and then I was taking the the JYE tech the red board I was taking that one screen and put it into
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the black sand smart see if it was a screen problem swapping those back and forth the screen looks
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good the boot sequence looks good the trace still slammed to the very top of the scope
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so what I did was I just started playing with the buttons and just running them to their extremes
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I was just trying to bring like the trigger level as down as low as I could the trace level down
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as low as I could and I must have held like the trace level for like a good minute and it just
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went down down down down down down down down down never came into the screen area but you can see
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the arrow on the left hand side going down down and then it looked like it went to the top again
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so it's almost like I got to like the bottom of a page of memory and then it comes back up to
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the top of the screen and then I go down down down down and I click on the voltage selector and then
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also I see the bottom of a square wave just up at the top of the screen just the very bottom
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so I just keep holding that that button down again and slowly here comes the square wave down
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into the screen so it was either through error of mine playing with these buttons way back when
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when I wasn't really sure how to use it you know I just turned it on starting pressing buttons
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or I had that the 1k and the 10k mixed up and it got a false calibration way back when
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in any case here I have it in front of me or well I'll tell you how I have it in front of me in a
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minute I had it in front of me 20 minutes ago sitting there on the bench working I was like shocked
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and happy at the same time then I start thinking oh man where the heck was Ace fears he 3D printed me
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a case and buttons and it's been so long I don't even know where that Ziploc bag was so I look
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all over the computer room and then finally I remember I put it in a shoebox I found the shoebox
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underneath the desk here got out all the parts and if you look at the pictures for this episode
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you will see me slowly putting this kit into Ace fears 3D printed case
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if it's quite nicely actually the screen is slightly crooked but that might just be
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that could have been like how I soldered that or something but it looks pretty cool
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yeah you can look at the pictures of me putting it together if you ever get this kit and then
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you do this 3d print the only tricky part was getting the up down the left switch buttons
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and then on the right the up down and then select I couldn't get them all in at one time because
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some of them want to be on the board and some of them want to be in the case the fix I found for
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that was to put some electric tape over on the sliders the selectors and then just stick them
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into the case so then I could hold the case in any direction I want those buttons would stick
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I put the selector buttons selector switch knobs on the switches and then I lowered the case
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if that makes any sense at all lowered the case onto the board flip it over and then I noticed
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on the left hand side which I wasn't aware of this when he 3d printed this there was a big space
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on the left hand side well looking from the back on the left hand side and I start thinking hey that
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looks big enough for a 9 volt so I went to the closet I got a 9 volt and sure enough a 9 volt fits
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in there and then I start looking up at the top so what's all this business here with like a hole
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and then another hole and then there's just like a little ring printed in the top and it dawns on
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me this must be for a switch for it out of switch so there's a way to get this kit stick it into
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this 3d print and make a fully portable unit you don't have to carry around a wall wart 9 volt
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transformer with you throw a 9 volt battery in there mount the switch and that's exactly what I've
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done here I'm holding in front of me you can see pictures of this you can see pictures of me putting the
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the 9 volt connection on and going up to the switch which is actually a really old
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switch from a Kramer focus 3000 so anybody remember Kramer focus like from the 80s the
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Stratocaster knockoff this was a switch I went down on the basement and found it it was on the
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pickguard and it would select I think it was uh yeah I'm trying to remember this guitar it was
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ages ago back when like the original Floyd roses I'm getting a little off topic but this switch
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was a selector switch so when you're down in the humbucker at the bridge position you could
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coil tap it you could run it just like a regular strat you're just using one coil on the pickup
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or you flip this switch and then you get the full humbucker like a Les Paul anyways I remember
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this switch was down there from like 30 years ago and I go down and it's the exact switch that
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fits in this little hole and I solder it all up put the 9 volt in there run the wires they even
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have a little slit from where the battery compartment is over into the main board so you can run
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your 9 volt leads through that little slit I put a little hot glue there to hold those down
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and actually there's another related guitar thing the back went on to this thing to hold it all
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together and there was no screws so I went downstairs and I got four pickguard screws so this has a
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few guitar parts in it but anyways you can take a look at the pictures if you'd like it's running
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I'm holding it in my hand right now I go up to the calibration the calibration loop actually hangs
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out of the top of it the there's two capacitor like trim pots and you do have access to them through
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the front of the case and that helps with correction if you've got a square wave and you're
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overshooting or undershooting the square wave on the front of the back there's your trim pots to
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calibrate your probe so to speak and the trigger light shines through the front the LED to show
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if you're triggered and when you're triggering and then you have an opening in the front of the
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case for reset so it's been a long project not that it took a long time but it was a long time in the
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making but here it is Ken will be happy that I've brought this to a conclusion because I know he's
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been wondering if this ever ever worked it did Ken and it wasn't as bad as you think get one
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okay that was just a quick hpr and I just wanted to add some closure to this and show a picture of
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the thing running and if you get the inspiration to try one of these kits yourself or any other
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electronics kits do an episode on it and let us know how it went if anybody wants to shoot me
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an email I'm in my bill at gunmonkeynet.net still kicking around on GNU social even though it seems
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like it's scattered these days because some instances have stopped talking to others and some
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update broke this and that and it's getting a little weird hopefully they'll resolve all that
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yeah I just did it again I'm saying hopefully they I should get involved in it as well instead of
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just complaining however I am and my bill at sn. gunmonkeynet.net and you can always add a comment
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in the comment section of hpr if you'd like I will talk to you guys next time I break a kit
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and fix it again see you later
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you've been listening to hecka public radio at hecka public radio dot org
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we are a community podcast network that releases shows every weekday Monday through Friday
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today's show like all our shows was contributed by an hpr listener like yourself
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if you ever thought of recording a podcast and click on our contributing to find out how easy it
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really is hecka public radio was founded by the digital dog pound and the infonomican computer club
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and it's part of the binary revolution at binwreff.com if you have comments on today's show
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please email the host directly leave a comment on the website or record a follow-up episode yourself
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unless otherwise stated today's show is released on the creative comments attribution share
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a light 3.0 license
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