hpr-knowledge-base/hpr_transcripts/hpr0606.txt

Episode: 606
Title: HPR0606: Thread_Repair
Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr0606/hpr0606.mp3
Transcribed: 2025-10-07 23:50:18

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The following program is WorkSafe and FamilySafe, right up until the song at the end, which
mentions whiskey in a positive way. Use your own discretion at that point.
Hello and welcome to today's AcroPublic Radio. I'm Poki and I'll be your host for today.
Before I get started, I'd like to address one thing. A lot of times when you hear people
talking on the internet and they mention their nicks or their handles or whatever you'd like to call it.
You want to where it came from and why they chose it. And Poki is a pretty stupid nickname. I gotta admit, the fact is I didn't choose it.
It's been chosen for me time and time again from people who have never met one another and it's just a name I can't get rid of.
I suppose I'm a bit of a procrastinator so I've probably earned it for that and for a couple of the reasons that I won't go into here today.
That being said, what I would like to go into is a little bit on threads and thread repair.
And my threads don't mean the kind in programming or processes. I mean the kind of threads that are on screws and nuts and bolts.
Most people don't give threads much of a thought. Most people don't have reason to, but being hackers eventually some of us
are going to turn to hardware hacking or to making or to assembling or to repairing things of a mechanical nature.
At which point you're going to want to know a little bit about threads and how they work.
First of all, the two basic ones you can concern yourself with are wood screw types and machine threads.
The types and wood screws as far as I can tell that doesn't seem to be much of a standardization to what's called the thread pitch or how many threads per inch.
You're going to have in a metric it wouldn't be per inches. I don't even know if it's per millimeter. I forget how it's counted.
But anyway, the wood screw you seem to be limited to fine and coarse threads.
The coarse threads drive quicker. Fine threads seem to hold a little stronger and harder material.
In softer materials, I usually prefer a coarse thread. You cut into a little bit less and you keep it together a little better.
Another thing to remember about wood screws is that wood has grain and that grain is important.
And if you look at say a block of wood, you'll see on, say you've got like a cube of wood.
On four sides of wood you're going to see the grain running from one end to the other.
On two of those sides of that cube, you're not going to see the grain running anywhere.
What you're going to see is a rougher surface called the end grain.
You never want to drive a screw into end grain. Its strength is not in that direction. It will not hold.
The best way to picture end grain failing with a screw in it would be to imagine holding a fist full of spaghetti.
Not wet spaghetti, but dry spaghetti right out of the box.
And you go and drive a screw into the center of it.
In every turn, you're a little bit of thread that's cutting in and pulling in.
It's just cutting a piece of spaghetti in half, or not in half, but a little chunk off of it, the size of the distance between threads.
And every time you turn that, you're going to get another little piece and another little piece until eventually your screws all the way in.
And you've got nothing holding your screw in place except for little pieces of spaghetti, or maybe even a half a piece if you're lucky at some points.
And give that screw a tug and it's going to fail.
The same is true with any wood you try to drive into end grain.
You always want to drive a screw across the grain. It's much stronger in that direction.
Again, you can picture driving it through some spaghetti that way, and it's going to hold.
If you haven't cut anything in half and you're pulling across it, that holds pretty well.
Anytime you take a screw out of wood, or a plastic, this applies to plastic, and you need to put it back in there.
Always use the same screw you took out of there, or an identical screw.
If you use something with a different thread pitch, you're going to cut new threads in there, and you're going to weaken it considerably.
So you don't want to try and use a different screw in there.
One technique that I always like to use with any bolt or any screw is I like to back thread them when I'm putting them back in.
Meaning if it's a standard right hand thread that you, you know, write it tidy, lefty loosey is the old rhyme.
I like to turn it counterclockwise, which is the direction that loosens it as I'm inserting it.
And I'll apply a little bit of pressure and turn it counterclockwise, and you'll feel the screw push back until it kind of snaps into place.
It'll fall in, and that's when you know you've got those threads of the screw lined up with the threads that have been cut previously in the piece of wood.
It also works for nuts and bolts for metal, the threads that are cut in there.
Then you can drive that screw safely in there, and you're not cutting any more threads, and you're retaining as much of the durability and strength of that material as you possibly can.
But say there aren't any threads in there anymore.
You've pulled them out, or you've cut them out, or someone has, and it's damaged, and that screw won't hold.
You know, you've tightened it, and tightened it, and tightened it, and eventually just kind of spins free in there.
Is there a fix? Absolutely, there's a fix for a piece of wood, and it doesn't necessarily require a larger screw.
Sometimes you're fastening something to that piece of wood that won't accept a larger screw.
So you feel like you're stuck. What can you do? Maybe a longer screw?
Okay, maybe the wood's not thinking of to accept a longer screw.
The answer here is you go out to the grocery store.
You look up and down the aisles until you find a box of hardwood toothpicks.
I don't like the bamboo toothpicks for this. I understand bamboo is considered a hardwood by some, but in this application it's found that it doesn't work as well.
Find yourself a box of hardwood toothpicks, and the best kind are the ones that are only sharp on one end, and flat on the other.
You get yourself a hammer, and you put as many of those toothpicks into that hole at the same time as you can.
Don't push any in, and then try to fit more in, but try and get a big bundle of them in there all it wants, and push them in there as hard as you can.
And then tap them in there as far as you can with that hammer.
Of course, I left out the most important part is you need to put some glue all over them before you start.
You want to put them up there dry first to see how many you're going to drive in, take them back down, and just smear them with glue.
White glue, Elmer's glue, Woodworkers glue, those are pretty much the best thing you can use.
Woodworkers glue is basically just Elmer's white glue with a little bit of dye in it, and maybe a little bit of sawdust to give it that color.
Some people like Gorilla Glue a lot. I haven't used it myself, and I don't know how I feel about it.
In wood, I'm not natively a woodworker, so I tend to go on what people I trust tell me.
No one I trust has ever told me Gorilla Glue, but other people have said it's okay. Your results vary if you go and try that.
Other than that, I've always heard that regular old woodworking glue or Elmer's glue is the best thing you can use on wood.
Anyway, once you get those driven in as far as you can, take utility knife, a razor blade.
Don't like exacto knives or the little break off blade for this, because they don't think they're really durable enough.
But a nice utility knife, and cut them flush with the piece of wood as flush as you can.
And what you've then done is you've taken a piece of wood that's harder than the piece you started with,
because you're probably working with pine.
You made a composite of wood and glue, which is extraordinarily strong.
You want stronger than the piece of wood that you've put it in.
You've made something stronger than what you started with.
Give it a day or so to dry, and you can drill a new hole to fit your original screw into that little bit of hardwood.
And I understand you're drilling into end grain there, and I just told you not to screw into end grain.
But because of the composite nature of it that you've added the glue, it actually does hold together.
In this case, it works just fine.
I've done this dozens of times. It works fantastically well. I've never had one fail yet.
And the trick was taught to me by a master carpenter and cabinet maker.
So I trust it, and it's always worked for me.
Plastic, you follow a lot of the same rules as wood, as far as trying to remove your screws,
and reinsert them as gently as possible.
As far as repairing them goes, it's going to depend on the plastic you're using.
And again, your results may vary.
And the best thing you can do there is just to learn a little bit about the plastic that you're working with,
and try and figure out how to do that.
I haven't really found too many fantastically successful ways of repairing damaged plastic.
You're kind of on your own there.
So I'll move on to metal.
Anytime you're putting a screw into metal, you're going to get a much stronger hold, of course,
than you would with wood and a much more accurate thread.
So what you want to do there, of course, is to use machine thread,
that screws and bolts for that.
American bolts are measured in the diameter of the bolt and the thread pitch.
None of those measurements has anything to do with the size of the wrench that you're going to put on the end of that bolt to turn it.
That you're going to have to figure out on your own.
But trust me, if you're using a bolt that is measured with standard American sizes,
you want to use an American wrench on that.
Don't try to use a metric wrench.
The only exception being a half inch bolt.
Not a half inch diameter, but a half inch bolt head.
You can go ahead and use a 13 millimeter on those typically.
13 millimeters is only just slightly smaller than half inch,
and usually they even fit tighter and work a little better.
But that's the only exception.
Metric bolts are probably what you're going to come across more often.
The only place you really see American bolts anymore is in the home, in construction.
Plumbing fittings are still American sizes.
Maybe sometimes furniture might still be in American sizes and some of the other assemblies in your home.
Thankfully, most other applications have moved on, have progressed,
and have begun using the metric system.
For the most part, every American car that I'm aware of uses metric bolts almost exclusively.
It's a pain when they mix them up and use some metric and some American bicycles.
I've never worked on a bicycle with an American fitting that I can remember.
To my knowledge, I've never worked on a single one.
Everything is metric.
Computers, they appear to be metric to me,
but usually there's a Phillips head screw in the end there, so what the heck?
Just use the Phillips.
And speaking of Phillips, a lot of people don't seem to know
that there are different sizes of Phillips head screws.
Different sizes of Phillips head screwdrivers.
Very specific sizes of Phillips head screwdrivers.
And your Phillips head screwdriver should have the size printed right on the side of it,
or stamped into it, or etched into it, or something.
The most common size being a number two.
The largest I've encountered being a number three.
And they go down from there, number one, zero, double-ought, and triple-ought.
Try to get the right size Phillips head screwdriver for your screw,
or you're going to strip the head of that screw out.
That's a whole another subject.
I'm not even going to get into that today.
When you do that kind of damage, a lot of times you're up a creek.
Try and have a nice assortment of Phillips head screwdrivers
so that you're not using the wrong size.
Another handy one to have if you can find it, if you can find a bit that says
P2R on it, or Phillips 2R or Phillips 2 rounded.
That is one of the nicest screwdriver bits or screwdrivers that you can have.
It fits number two, but it fits it a lot more snugly than the original pointy design.
And it just works better.
Most tool stores that I've come across don't seem to know what I'm talking about when I ask for it.
They really have no idea you've got to look it up yourself in a catalog
or look on the shelf and find it.
The only place I've been able to reliably find it
is in an assortment pack of interchangeable bits at Sears.
They have on the wall there and it comes with maybe 25 or 50 bits.
I forget how many was in there.
And like five or six of them are the rounded ones.
And the rest are just their bits.
They're pretty much useless to me.
If you want them, give me a hauler and you can have them.
They're mostly just regular old Phillips.
And I think there were some flat heads in there and I don't want them.
Don't need them.
This is a good thing to have.
But anyway, for machine threads, you can repair those as well too.
It takes some more specialized tools to do that.
And it may or may not be worth your investment to use those or to buy those tools.
But if you can find them cheap or if you see them on sale sometime,
you probably want to pick them up, especially a set of metric ones.
And what I'm referring to are called taps and dyes.
A tap is a threaded rod.
It looks kind of like a bolt with material missing the length of it.
Usually three or four, they're called flutes, where it's been cut out.
So what you have left looks like three or four blades of jagged teeth running down that.
A standard normal tap.
You can run into a hole that's got no threads in it whatsoever.
And if done properly, it will cut the threads into that hole.
And you can run a bolt into it after it'll fit beautifully.
It'll fit perfectly.
You can also use a tap in an existing hole.
If the threads inside there are damaged, you can run that down there and repair the threads to a certain degree.
They're not going to be quite as strong as original because some of the material is going to be missing.
Some of it will have been distorted and weakened, but you can take out material with a tap.
It removes material in it or remove what shouldn't be there.
It won't necessarily put back what should be there.
You can think of it that way as far as it weakening.
The proper way to use a tap is to, of course, find the right size that you're going to use.
Find the right handle that you're going to use on the end of it to turn it with.
And find yourself some form of lubrication.
WD-40 works pretty well for this.
It doesn't work all that well for much else.
Frankly, it's WD-40 evaporates pretty quickly.
It's not a very good lubricant over the long term.
It's okay to break some rust and to lubricate something for a short period of time.
But it's not a good long term lubricant, but it's perfect for this.
As is any motor oil, I don't care if you even used motor oil off the end of your dipstick.
Just drop a little bit on that tap and maybe do that once or twice or three times while you're tapping or re-tapping those threads.
So make sure there's lubrication there.
If you do it right, it'll keep from chipping.
And the right technique to use, if you're starting a new hole or starting a new threads in a new hole,
that's a little trickier.
You've got to kind of get it started first.
You've got to use some pressure and try to go back and forth a little bit using pressure as you're going clockwise.
Until it starts to bite.
Once you start going into the hole, then you go back to doing it the way that you do as if you were pairing it.
And that would be to turn it in maybe a quarter or a half a turn, meaning 90 or 180 degrees,
and then back it off a little bit.
And what you'll do is you'll start hearing and feeling as you're backing it off, little snaps.
Those are the little pieces of material that you're cutting out breaking off.
And they will fall into the flutes that are cut in the tap.
That material you're removing will kind of build up in there.
Then you'll have to, every once in a while, run that tap all the way back out, clean those flutes out.
This is why I like WD-40 for this because you can just spray it out and it kind of powers it out of there.
And then go back in and you can turn it clockwise as many turns in until you get back to where you were before.
And then go again, you can go half a turn.
If you're brave, you can go a full turn and then back it off a quarter.
You kind of get the hang of it, the feel of it, depending on the material that you're trying to tap.
The easiest and best thing to tap is steel.
The worst thing in the hardest to try to tap is cast iron.
That's very, very hard. It doesn't like to cut.
And you're going to break a lot of taps, learning how to do that properly.
I wouldn't recommend it.
Another horrible thing to have to tap is regular, soft aluminum, the stock stuff that you buy at the hardware store.
It likes to tear more than cut.
And you can clog up a tap real fast and real easy and break the teeth off of it.
Probably won't break it in half, but you could very easily break the teeth off of your tap.
Be real, real careful and don't turn those very far at all.
Sometimes I'll leave eighth of a turn before you back it out and maybe only a full turn before you take it all the way out and clean it again.
It's real tricky.
I have had professional machinists disagree with me on this point and say that soft aluminum is very, very easy to tap.
However, I believe they're using much better taps than I own and I believe they're using a much higher grade of aluminum than what I'm buying at the hardware store.
And what you're probably going to buy at the hardware store if you buy some aluminum.
Not to mention, they're probably not buying their own taps anyway so they don't care if they break one or two and they've got plenty of spares lying around.
I've never had spare taps lying around.
They're pretty expensive, even the ones that I'm buying.
I'm not buying cheap taps.
I don't own cheap ones, but I don't own machinist grade stuff either.
In either case, it's almost a moot point.
As you're not going to tap aluminum very often, it's a much better idea to use a nut and a washer behind that.
Steel has a much stronger tensile strength than aluminum and you're far less likely to damage what you're working on by overtightening that bolt.
It's a little tougher to overtighten a steel bolt that's clamping on aluminum than it is to overtighten a bolt that's run through aluminum and pulling on that aluminum itself.
If you have to tap aluminum, always use a real tap.
Don't try to use a self-tapping screw, which is something I haven't even talked about and I really don't want to too much,
except to say that I have tried to use self-tapping screws and aluminum before and they wind up just distorting the aluminum as opposed to removing the material,
causing a tremendous amount of pressure all the way around that screw until it just kind of locks in place.
You can't turn it one way or the other when you finally try to take it out.
You take a lot of the aluminum with you a lot more than you intended to take.
The aluminum does tear away.
It does a thing that's called galling where it will stick to the tool or it will stick to say a surface of a bearing or something that's running on it
and will just tear away from itself and it will have a stronger bond to the usually steel piece than to itself
and you'll get little pits and pockets of aluminum that no longer exist.
You can have that inside your threaded hole and you'll probably get that inside your threaded hole if you try with a self-tapping screw.
That's big no-no.
Hardened aluminum or tempered aluminum or heat treated aluminum, all those things are synonymous.
You can tap that pretty easily.
And if it's already been tapped, if you're just repairing threads, aluminum isn't actually as much of a problem.
And cast iron also, if it's already been tapped, you can chase the threads to clean it out.
Just do so carefully because if you get to the point where you're cutting new threads, you're likely to break your tap.
Break your tap often a piece of cast iron and you're in big trouble.
Bring it to a mechanic. He'll know how to take care of it.
But it's not something you're going to want to try to take care of on your own.
A standard tap is tapered at the end.
That's so that it can cut new threads.
If you have a hole that goes all the way through your material, it's perfectly reasonable, safe and acceptable to run that tap all the way through the material and just take it out the other side.
If you've got what's called a blind hole, something that hasn't been drilled all the way through, you're going to be able to get to the very bottom threads.
You're going to have to make your mind up as to whether that's acceptable to you or not.
If it is not acceptable, you need to get a tap that doesn't have a taper on it and it's not called a tap anymore.
It's called a thread chaser.
And if you buy a thread chaser, that's all that you can do with it is trying to clean out threads that already exist.
A thread chaser is never to be used to cut new threads. You'll destroy it immediately.
I've mentioned destroying taps an awful lot so far.
Now it's probably a good time to mention that a good place to buy your taps is from one of the tool trucks that you might see parked outside of an automatic shop.
And the reason for that, unfortunately, they're very expensive there, but over the long run they're cheaper because they have a lifetime guarantee on all their stuff.
And all you have to do is give them a call, find out where they are and bring them that tool, and they'll replace it for you if it's broken.
So that's not a bad place to pick those up.
Whereas if you buy them at your hardware store, you break it, you're out of tap. You don't have that anymore.
The partner of a tap, the other side of the equation, is an item called a die.
And a die cuts threads into bolts or rods.
Most bolts that you buy aren't going to have threads cut into them. They're going to have threads pressed into them, which makes them very strong.
So keep that in mind that if you have just a bare rod and you decide you're going to cut threads into it, cut new threads into it with a die, they're not going to be as strong that fastener that you're creating.
It's not going to be as strong as one that you can buy. So just keep that in mind.
But other than that, it does the exact same thing as a tap, but it does it to a bolt.
And it does it just as well. Every die that I know of has that taper in it for getting started, I don't know of one that doesn't have it.
So what I would often do if I had a bolt that had to be threaded all the way to the cap is once I was done cleaning those threads in it,
it would take it back off and turn it around, turn the die around, and use the backside that didn't have a taper.
I've done that a couple times. I don't know if that's standard practice, but I've done it enough times to know that it works.
And that's pretty, well actually, no, there's one more thing. Say you've got a piece of metal and you strip the threads out of it completely.
No tap is going to help you because a tap only removes material. It cannot put material back.
And then you've removed so much material that there is no way to get a new thread in it.
Thankfully, you still are not so out of luck that you've got to give up on this piece of material.
You can repair those threads, believe it or not. What you wind up doing, you to buy a thread repair kit,
usually you can get them at like an automotive store, an auto parts store.
And what that kit will have in it is special size to drill bits.
These are drill bits that you cannot buy in this size anywhere else. They're not American or metric size.
You will drill into that hole to make it bigger.
And then what you do is they'll also give you a special tap that is not any standard size.
And you can only get in that thread repair kit.
You'll tap new threads, brand new threads into that hole.
So you've got to do just like I was explaining before in creating new threads.
You put a little bit of pressure on it. You get it started. Once you get it started, you can go to work just working back and forth.
So you don't break your tap off.
And then there'll be a coil of metal and a tool to twist that coil of metal into the hole.
And it'll thread in very easily because it kind of works like a spring in that as you're tightening it in there,
it's not putting any pressure on the outside of it.
And when it gets to the bottom of the hole or as deep as you want it to be,
you spin it backwards and it tightens up and you break off the little piece that you've been spinning.
As long as you use the proper thread locker with that and give that thread locker time to cure,
that repair is usually stronger than the one that it's replacing.
They usually use a much stronger metal for that than what you've just taken the bolt out of.
So it's perfectly acceptable repair.
You usually don't wind up back in those thread repairs out either when you take your piece apart again.
You take your bolt out and that thread stays in the hole where it belongs.
Since I mentioned thread locker, there is one for that, but that's not the only use for thread locker.
There are several different grades and several different strengths of thread locker.
I would recommend that next time you are out shopping and get a chance,
go to an auto parts store and pick up a tube of blue permatex thread locker.
It's the medium strength and it works great on just about everything.
And basically all it does is it makes sure your bolt does not spin unintentionally.
It inhibits rust to a good degree so that when you do get your bolt to spin a little bit,
you can usually take it out with fingers or, you know, real easily with the tool that you've got.
You want to fight to get your bolts out great for bicycles, cars, most things around the house.
That's a good thing to have on hand.
Lastly, the only other kind of thread repair that I've ever had to do that couldn't be done with anything I've talked about so far.
Every once in a while you get a funny bolt.
Maybe it's too big to use a tap on and I've had to manually file them with jewelers files or with a thread file.
It's another tool. Don't go by a thread file. You'll probably never use it.
If you ever do use it, it's probably not going to earn its keep because it's a very expensive tool.
But if you've got jewelers files, they're not out of the question.
Just know that they're going to be a sloppier fit, a weaker fit than any of the other things that I've mentioned here today.
I think that's about it as far as repairing threads.
And the only thing I might suggest is that you don't damage the threads in the first place.
There's about three ways you can damage threads.
The first thing that you can do is to put the wrong screw in there, something with a different thread pitch.
It looks like it'll fit. You start getting it in there. It even feels like it fits sometimes.
That'll often happen going from an American to a metric thread or vice versa.
It starts going in. It feels fine. You go great. You put your tool on. You start turning it.
It gets a little harder. You go, okay, I'll have to turn it a little harder.
You turn it a little harder. The harder you turn it, the more you're damaging those threads.
You're just destroying them in there. And you take that back out and find the right bolt or screw.
And it's not going to fit either because you've damaged those threads so bad.
And if you can force that one in there, half the time it'll go in. It'll get past the threads.
And it'll fit correctly. And you won't have much trouble unless you try and take it out and put it back in again.
Half the time it finds the wrong threads and follows the wrong threads.
It winds up cutting new threads across your other ones. That's called cross threading.
If you cross thread a bolt into a hole, you're going to damage both the hole and the bolt.
And you usually have to repair the threads in the hole and replace the bolt or repair the bolt.
And replacing it's usually preferential.
Another way you can damage threads is just simply by cross threading them even with the right size screw.
It can still happen, especially if there's a little nick or a chip in the threads of either piece.
That's why I like back threading. Always like back threading to insert them.
And I always use them, my fingers to put them in before I ever put a tool on it.
I'll put it as far in with my fingers as I can get it.
Some people will put it right on the tool and just start driving in there.
That can be disastrous. It very often is. I had a very, very costly repair that I had to perform once
because I thought it would be quick to just throw a bolt in my power ratchet, an air tool, and just drive it into a piece of a car.
And I destroyed the piece and the bolt. It was in a car dealership at the time.
It was a piece of warranty work and you don't repair threads and warranty work like that.
It's just not acceptable. And I had to buy a steer and knock a lot of my own pocket.
That's into the labor out of my own pocket. That was a pretty expensive mistake.
And since then I've always learned, run those in with your fingers as far as you can before you ever put a tool on it.
Especially a power tool. And that includes the little rechargeable screw drivers.
And the last thing that you can do to damage the threads is to over tighten what you're working on.
That is a little tougher to explain. If you don't have a piece that has a spec and a specific torque and then a torque wrench to put that in with,
you kind of have to go by feel and that takes experience.
And the best I can tell you about that is that the strongest bolt or a screw, a metal fastener,
can hold into a piece of metal is when it threads into the point where it's all the way in.
And then as you turn it, it stretches. And at its maximum stretch, it has its maximum strength.
But once you go beyond that maximum stretch, once it gets easier to turn,
you've gone beyond that point, your bolt is weakening, it's giving up.
You've gone too far. So try never to go that far with a piece of metal.
Nearly the same could be said of a piece of wood or a piece of plastic.
As you're turning it in there and you're tightening it up and you're snugging it up,
if you feel like it's starting to get easier to turn and you're at the bottom already, you know it's tightened.
Now it's starting to get easier to turn. You've just gone too far.
If you stop right there and walk away, a lot of times you're okay with a piece of wood.
But if you go any further, you're going to wreck it and you're going to have to wind up
driving some toothpicks in there to fix it.
And by the way, if you do that repair with the toothpicks, it is toothpicks that you want to use.
Don't try using a dowel because it doesn't have the strength of the glue helping you out there.
That's it for me in this episode. It's a much longer episode than I expected.
I was thinking about 10 or 12 minutes.
So I'm a little embarrassed at my long-windedness.
So I apologize for the long length of it, but I feel I've been pretty thorough.
If this is a new topic too, you may have some questions. Feel free to give me a shout.
I'm pDaily03 at gmail.com.
That's p like bokeh.
Daily is d-a-i-l-e-y.
03 at gmail.com or hit me up in IRC.
I'm there often enough that you probably get me during the day.
And I'm usually in a gas planet, hashog gas planet on irc.frino.net.
And the song fight song that I've chosen for today, according to song fight,
is by Andrew Ayers and guest.
It makes no guess or mention of who the guest might be.
So I have no idea.
The name of the song is outside paradise.
And I just thought this was a brilliant little song.
A really nice take on the title that he was given, outside paradise.
And if you can imagine someone giving you the title of a song before you've written the song,
and then you have to write a song to fit the title, working under those constraints.
That's one of the things I like best about finding this nice music on song fight.
It's just knowing how tough it must have been to work under those constraints.
The elegant solutions to that problem that some of these people have chosen.
And I really like how Andrew Ayers solved that problem with this song outside paradise.
His website, I think, is like a blind man.com.
A lot of the links on the website are broken.
It looks like he hasn't touched it in a while.
The couple of songs that he did have on that website that the links were not broken.
It sounds a lot like him.
So I kind of think that that's him.
I kind of think that that's his website.
But it doesn't seem like he's working with it with the website anyway.
So he may not care whether you grab the song from song fight or go to his website.
That's as much as I could find on it anyway doing the research.
Thank you very much for listening to my episode of Hacker Public Radio.
And have a wonderful morning, afternoon, evening or day or night.
Whatever it is where you're at and when you're listening.
And that's it.
I'll leave you with the song.
Thank you very much.
And goodbye.
Music
Outside of paradise
There's a limit on fun
Whiskey and cheesets
That's the best that I've done
Outside of paradise
Trouble grows on trees
There's a bus take out of this orchard
But the bus never leaves
The world rides a Harley
Where's a scary leather jacket?
You're limping down the highway
Clutching your head
You're lean on your one good foot
Try to stay out of sight
The world's not a vampire
But it sure does like blood
Outside of paradise
Was where I met you
Away from these greasy skies
Out under the blue
I'd like to watch TV now
I'm hoping it'll explain
Why it's so crowded and Brooklyn
And inside my brain
Outside of Play-Doh
Nothing's much fun
And that too gets crusty
Before your castle is done
Outside of paradise
Was where I met you
Away from these greasy skies
Out under the blue
We push hard in New York
We're shoving we here
Towards the great New York victory
Being able to leave
If no one never told you
The dead could be like this
I'm gonna tell you right now baby
Gonna beg you please
Taking it slowly
It's killing me quick
My skin is too skinny
Your hide is too thin
You're outside of what you're tall
Been there for several years
Babe, don't ever hold back there
Don't ever come here
Outside of paradise
Was where I met you
Away from these greasy skies
Out under the blue
Outside of paradise
There are limits on fun
Whiskey and cheese it
That's the best that I've done
Thank you for listening to Haftler Public Radio
HPR is sponsored by Carol.net
She'll head on over to C-A-R-O.N-T for all of her speed
Thank you for listening to Haftler Public Radio
HPR is sponsored by Carol.net
She'll head on over to C-A-R-O.N-T for all of her speed
Thank you for listening to Haftler Public Radio
HPR is sponsored by Carol.net