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137 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
137 lines
12 KiB
Plaintext
Episode: 2307
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Title: HPR2307: Baofeng UV5R VHF/UHF Handset part 4
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Source: https://hub.hackerpublicradio.org/ccdn.php?filename=/eps/hpr2307/hpr2307.mp3
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Transcribed: 2025-10-19 01:05:00
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---
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This episode of HBR is brought to you by Ananasthos.com.
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Get 15% discount on all shared hosting with the offer code HBR15. That's HBR15.
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Better web hosting that's honest and fair at Ananasthos.com.
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Hello and welcome Hacker Public Radio audience. My name is Mr X. As usual I'd like to start
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by thanking the people HBR for making this service available. If we all contributed a show
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with more shows than we know what to do with, the show is provided by the community for the community.
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It's actually very easy. They've gone to a great deal of effort to streamline the whole process
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and it's really quite, quite easy. The hardest part I find is getting down to rightness,
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the show notes. It's just about picking up a microphone and hitting the record button.
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We should must have something interesting that we'd all love to hear.
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Okay, on this episode of the podcast I'm going to describe all the outer controls around
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the outside edge of the both in UV5R. Hopefully won't be too rambly and hopefully won't be too boring.
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But remember this all can fallen's fault. Okay, so let's now cover the
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detailed description of controls around the case. So we take the actual radio itself and we'll
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go around the outside edge first of all. So looking from the front right hand side,
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you'll have a plastic cover which has letters SP and MIC on it. SP presumably is for speaker
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and MIC is presumably for mic. I'll just open this up. Now I don't think the radio is not waterproof
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for any of that, but obviously that cover helps if there's light rain or whatever I suppose.
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So when you flip that open, you get two jack plugs. Jack plug, according to Wikipedia,
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a phone connector also known as a phone jack, audio jack, headphone jack or jack plug,
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is a common family of electrical connectors typically used for analog signals,
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primarily audio and they usually come in 3.5 and 2.5 millimeter sizes.
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Controversially Apple is removing these, well the 3.5 from their latest iPhone I believe.
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I actually had a conversation with a Phil amateur recently and they was talking about a weakness
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on the both thing UV5R in that the audio can cut out from the radio and this is
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related to using the speaker jack on the radio and I said that people were just
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when that happened they just threw them in the bucket, but they said that it came across
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an article in a website and I'll see if I can find it, which does get how to get around that.
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Now I don't know if you still do some of the functionality of the actual speaker once doing
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speaker socket once you do this, but it allows the audio to come through the main speaker of the
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radio again, which is what happens at cuts out supposedly. What these things do is that when the
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jack plug is pushed into the socket, it pushes a contact as it makes contact, but as it does that,
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it moves it and breaks connection with another contact, which then disconnects the
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the speaker inside the radio so that when you plug headphones in, the radio stops making an
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always basically and something must be going wrong with that socket and side obviously.
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In fact, I've now noticed a problem with my own handset, if I push it slightly too far in then
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the audio from the covert earpiece cuts in and out a little bit. I haven't noticed any
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problem with the radio itself, but the earpiece is a bit iffy when you push it in, but it seems
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to be more to do with the socket and the radio and not the actual earpiece, so maybe I'm going to
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have a problem like that in due course as well, so that's something to bear to think about.
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These sockets are a bit iffy anyway. I have these, it seems to think on my
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Sansa clip, and for that reason alone, I never take the earpiece out because if you leave them
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alone, they'll perfectly find these sockets, but if you're constantly pulling them in and out,
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they fairly quickly fail. You can get more professional versions of these sockets and plugs and
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they're more robust. I've got the kind of large version of these and they're not 3.5,
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they're the bigger ones, which I don't know what size it is, but it's the ones that they use in
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guitars and guitar amps, and I've got one of those on my big HF radio, which I have.
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It's got a very solid snap, clicked it when you push the socket in, and that's very good quality.
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You can get good quality sockets and plugs, but generally they tend to be cheap, so that's something
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to watch out for. These two sockets can also be used to program the radio if you can get a
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programming cable and with the correct programming cable and software, you can load frequencies and
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settings into it and such like, that's very useful. The next control round is a volume control.
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It's a variable resistor, a real starter, potentiometer, and as you turn it, the resistance varies
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on this device, which in turn adjusts the volume of the audio to the speaker. It also has a
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switch intake integrated into it, which you can hit, click when you switch it on, you may be
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heard that, there you go, that turns the radio off and on. A slight problem I found with that is that
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being on the top, if it sits on your built clip, it can actually be moved as you're walking
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and can gradually bring the volume of the radio down, so that's maybe not terribly clever.
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My more expensive older amateur radio handset has a side volume control and it's kind of
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shouted a little bit to protect it and it never moves, so perhaps a slight weakness in the design,
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but really self-antastic for the value, so that's that. The next control on the device is you
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work your way around on the top. There's a kind of clear LED on the top, so LED is a
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light emitting diode, a diode is a semiconductor, so-called because under certain conditions,
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it will conduct and in the other conditions it won't. You can think of a diode as being a bit
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like a non-return valve used in plumbing and that it would end up to allow electricity to flow
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in one direction, but not the other. A diode can be manufactured in such a way that it will emit
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light and voltage with a correct polarity as applied.
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LEDs were first when I hatched their 1960s, they have many advantages over conventional bulbs,
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such as producing very little heat, low energy consumption, longer life time and improved
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physical robustness. It's remarkably useful this LED, you're wondering what place it's
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going to be able to do with you and it can be a bit of a dark to just tap a button and the
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light comes on and you can see what you're doing. It's amazing how useful it is.
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The next control on the devices is the antenna socket and this uses an SME connector, they call it SME.
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And of course I didn't look at what SME stands for. That's how we look.
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Connector. SME Sub-Manager version A connectors are SME Precision Coaxial RF connectors developed
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in 1960 as a minimal connector interface for a coaxial cable with a screw-type coupling mechanism.
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The connector has a 50 ohm impedance. SME is designed for use from DC to 18 gigahertz,
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but it is most commonly encountered with Wi-Fi antenna systems and USB
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software-defined radio dongles. So there you go, that's for the SME stands for. That's what SME stands
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for. Sub-Manager version A. I never knew that. Now where was I? Yes.
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So I was wondering about the connector on this. It's a reverse SME. So it's opposite of what
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you normally get. It's a reverse SME to SME. You need a reverse SME to SOS239 adapter if you're
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thinking of attaching a larger radio to the radio. As the SME connector is a reverse gender to the
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usual socket found on radios like this. I haven't as yet looked into this, but I'm sure it will be
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easily enough to pick up online. The next control on the radio is the call button.
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When the handset is turned on and is in the receive mode, a short push of this button turns
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on the FM broadcast radio allowing you to listen to normal FM radio stations. Another short push
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will turn the handset to normal operation. The FM radio broadcast will also turn off
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if a signal appears on the frequency you were listening to before the call button was pushed.
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A long push of the call button when in receive mode will flash the word alarm on the button
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on the bottom line of the LCD display. The front TXRX LED will flash alternatively red and green.
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The top white LED blinks quickly and audio aspiring is broadcasted simultaneously through the
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handset slot speaker and on a predefined frequency set up during programming. A short push of the
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call button will cancel the alarm and return the radio to normal operation. There's not enough
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a lot of use for that and I'm going to use it obviously, but interesting nonetheless.
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The next button around, down from the call button, it's a larger button so it's easier for your
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finger to get onto because you're going to be using that this button the most and it's got the
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words the letters PTT printed on it. So the PTT button stands for push to talk. The both thing UV5R
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is equipped with a single received circuit and a single transmit circuit. When the push to talk
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button is pushed it will deactivate the received circuit and activate the transmit circuit of the handset.
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Releasing it will do the opposite. This is Simplex operation as the radio can either be in
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receive mode or transmit mode but not both. Duplex handsets are available with a single transmit
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circuit and two received circuits allowing the radio to receive two signals at the same time.
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One of the received circuits is switched off when the PTT is pushed and the transmitter is then
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activated allowing the radio to both receive and transmit at the same time. This makes the
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radio operate more like a mobile phone which is in fact how mobile phone or cordless phone works
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by transmitting and receiving at the same time. Duplex radios are substantially more complex
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and therefore more expensive than the both thing UV5R.
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The next button along is the monitor button at MON, MON, the monitor button. This button opens
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a radio squelch according to Wikipedia and telecommunications squelch is a circuit function
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that acts to suppress the audio output of a receiver in the absence of a sufficiently strong
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desired input signal. Squelch is widely used in two radio and radio scanners to suppress the
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sound of channel noise when the radio is not receiving a transmission. Squelch can be opened
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which allows all signals entering the receiver to be heard. This can be useful when trying to hear
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a distance or otherwise weak signal. So I'll just turn that the radio on and let you hear that.
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So there you go, that's the radio on. So when I push and hold the monitor button down, you'll hear
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there you go and if I release the button then it stops.
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If you, what I forgot to mention is if you momentarily touch this PTT button, this monitor button,
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then the top LED light comes on. If you touch it a second time, it flashes rapidly and if you
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touch it a third time, the LED goes off. It's a dual function, the mod button,
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long press for for opening the squelch and short press for
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activating the top LED which is said before is extremely useful. So that covers all the controls
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around outside of the Bo thing UV5R. Okay, that's about it for this podcast. Hope you enjoyed it,
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hope it wasn't too boring. If you want to contact me, I can be contacted at MrX at hpr at googlemail.com
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and that's mrx80hpr the at symbol googlemail.com. So until next time, thank you and goodbye.
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